Is a Mean Well RSP-320-15 a good choice for Top Charging?
Hi all,
I am thinking of buying a Mean Well RSP-320-15 (they won't allow a direct link) power supply to use primarily for "Top Charging" the batteries. Is this a good choice for Top Charging?
I have a Cedar Creek 36CKTS with a battery compartment that holds four GC2 batteries. I bought four Trojan T-125 batteries with a combined capacity of 480 AH (20-Hr Rate). There is a 200W solar panel on the roof, factory installed with a Go Power GP-PWM-30 solar controller. The converter is a WFCO 9855 :( and the Distribution Panel is a WFCO WF-8930/50. The trailer has a residential refrigerator powered by an inverter and batteries when not plugged into utility electric. I figure the refrigerator will use about 140 AH DC daily when powered by the inverter and batteries.
When we are camping without utility electric hookup, I plan to do daily battery recharges, 50%-80% SOC, with a Mean Well RPB-1600-12 (rated for 100A) powered by two Honda EU2000i generators (paralleled).
When we get to a campground with electric hookup, I will fully charge the batteries and then do a "Top Charge" with the Mean Well RSP-320-15. It is rated at 321W (21.4A at 15.0V) with adjustable voltage 13.5 - 18V. I plan to adjust the voltage output to 15.0V, and charge the batteries until they get to 15.0V. The 21A is 4.4% of the battery banks 480AH capacity.
I originally planned to buy and install these two power supplies / chargers in September, but I want to buy the smaller one now to work around a recent problem.
Problem: I bought the trailer in May. The 120VAC electric worked properly on a 4 week trip and for 3 days at home. The outlet at home is a standard 15A outlet that I have used for years to power RVs (light usage, converter and refrigerator) when parked in the driveway. I turned off the two main 50A 120VAC electric circuit breakers, turned them back on and then every circuit on the right side of the breaker box was dead. All the circuits on the left side work. I checked the GFCI outlet in the bathroom. The two buttons on it do nothing, no click, the reset button will not stay in when pushed. I cannot find another GFCI outlet in the trailer. I tried to open the circuit breaker box to check the right side 50A main breaker, but one of the four cover screws will not loosen. It turns roughly, like the nut flange is broken, but does not loosen. The refrigerator/ inverter circuit and the converter circuit are among the dead circuits. I can plug the refrigerator/inverter into the working vacuum cleaner circuit. I can't reach the converter plug to plug it in somewhere else.
RV repair shops are booked up here now for many weeks. I have a trip planned in a few weeks (paid in advance, no refunds). Until the AC electric is fixed, I want to work around the problem. The 200W solar panel should keep the batteries mostly charged, if we conserve DC electric use and stay in campgrounds with electric hookups to power the residential refrigerator. While traveling the trucks DC electric wire in the 7-way connector to the trailer should should supply most of the power needed for the inverter/refrigerator. If the batteries need additional charging I plan to use the smaller Mean Well RSP-320-15, adjusted to 14.8V. Thus the reason to buy it now, instead of in September.
I think the 120VAC electric problem is a bad main 50A circuit breaker. There are two 50A breakers, one for each side of the box. Does anyone have another idea as to why the right side circuits only would be dead? Anything else I can check?
Do you think my work around plan for the electric problem will work for about 15 days travel?
Is the Mean Well RSP-320-15 a good choice for top charging? Is my top charging plan right?
Thanks,
Chris
I am thinking of buying a Mean Well RSP-320-15 (they won't allow a direct link) power supply to use primarily for "Top Charging" the batteries. Is this a good choice for Top Charging?
I have a Cedar Creek 36CKTS with a battery compartment that holds four GC2 batteries. I bought four Trojan T-125 batteries with a combined capacity of 480 AH (20-Hr Rate). There is a 200W solar panel on the roof, factory installed with a Go Power GP-PWM-30 solar controller. The converter is a WFCO 9855 :( and the Distribution Panel is a WFCO WF-8930/50. The trailer has a residential refrigerator powered by an inverter and batteries when not plugged into utility electric. I figure the refrigerator will use about 140 AH DC daily when powered by the inverter and batteries.
When we are camping without utility electric hookup, I plan to do daily battery recharges, 50%-80% SOC, with a Mean Well RPB-1600-12 (rated for 100A) powered by two Honda EU2000i generators (paralleled).
When we get to a campground with electric hookup, I will fully charge the batteries and then do a "Top Charge" with the Mean Well RSP-320-15. It is rated at 321W (21.4A at 15.0V) with adjustable voltage 13.5 - 18V. I plan to adjust the voltage output to 15.0V, and charge the batteries until they get to 15.0V. The 21A is 4.4% of the battery banks 480AH capacity.
I originally planned to buy and install these two power supplies / chargers in September, but I want to buy the smaller one now to work around a recent problem.
Problem: I bought the trailer in May. The 120VAC electric worked properly on a 4 week trip and for 3 days at home. The outlet at home is a standard 15A outlet that I have used for years to power RVs (light usage, converter and refrigerator) when parked in the driveway. I turned off the two main 50A 120VAC electric circuit breakers, turned them back on and then every circuit on the right side of the breaker box was dead. All the circuits on the left side work. I checked the GFCI outlet in the bathroom. The two buttons on it do nothing, no click, the reset button will not stay in when pushed. I cannot find another GFCI outlet in the trailer. I tried to open the circuit breaker box to check the right side 50A main breaker, but one of the four cover screws will not loosen. It turns roughly, like the nut flange is broken, but does not loosen. The refrigerator/ inverter circuit and the converter circuit are among the dead circuits. I can plug the refrigerator/inverter into the working vacuum cleaner circuit. I can't reach the converter plug to plug it in somewhere else.
RV repair shops are booked up here now for many weeks. I have a trip planned in a few weeks (paid in advance, no refunds). Until the AC electric is fixed, I want to work around the problem. The 200W solar panel should keep the batteries mostly charged, if we conserve DC electric use and stay in campgrounds with electric hookups to power the residential refrigerator. While traveling the trucks DC electric wire in the 7-way connector to the trailer should should supply most of the power needed for the inverter/refrigerator. If the batteries need additional charging I plan to use the smaller Mean Well RSP-320-15, adjusted to 14.8V. Thus the reason to buy it now, instead of in September.
I think the 120VAC electric problem is a bad main 50A circuit breaker. There are two 50A breakers, one for each side of the box. Does anyone have another idea as to why the right side circuits only would be dead? Anything else I can check?
Do you think my work around plan for the electric problem will work for about 15 days travel?
Is the Mean Well RSP-320-15 a good choice for top charging? Is my top charging plan right?
Thanks,
Chris
