I was running on my generator when I tried to plug a small air compressor into the outlet in my exterior storage bay. When I did, the compressor started for a milli-second and didn't run any more. All the breakers appeared to be OK, but I re-set them any way. When I went inside I noticed the A/C was off. It had been on and running fine a few minutes earlier. I checked the GFCI plug by the sink and it would not trip or re-set. I'll change the GFCI plug tomorrow but my question is...would the A/C be on the GFCI circuit?

That outside outlet is.......the A/C should be on it's own 15A CB

Are you sure you didn't trip the breaker on the generator? If you have no power to the GFI the test and reset buttons may not work without power.My A/C is on a 20A breaker but on a small generator (say a 2200W gen) its the only thing I can run. If I add more load like a compressor, microwave, large fan etc. it will trip the genny breaker. I recently sold my small genny and now have a 3500W Predator or a 4750W Champion that will run everything.

A Honda gen will keep running even after its circuit breaker is popped. You reset the CB by stopping the engine and starting over ( with the load unplugged), then plug back in with less load. If big load, start gen engine with eco off then wait till all running then turn eco on or the engine might conk out at first.A GFCI will not reset unless it has power. Yours acts like no power, so concur with previous idea, that the gen power CB has popped.The A/C should be on its own circuit as stated above, but anything is possible in an RV! :(

George3037 wrote:Are you sure you didn't trip the breaker on the generator? If you have no power to the GFI the test and reset buttons may not work without power.My A/C is on a 20A breaker but on a small generator (say a 2200W gen) its the only thing I can run. If I add more load like a compressor, microwave, large fan etc. it will trip the genny breaker. I recently sold my small genny and now have a 3500W Predator or a 4750W Champion that will run everything.I thought about this possibility after I parked it back in storage and came home. I'll pull it out tomorrow and check this.Thanks

Is A/C on GFCI circuit | Good Sam Community

red31
Explorer
Jul 16, 2018
I sure most have seen the window units in the aliner type trailers or the window units sticking out the back of a ole caned ham, 15A circuit!
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jul 15, 2018
Hi Dusty,

Yes boxes were installed. It is an up to code installation.

Dusty R wrote:

Did you install a box with those good quality screw terminal type ones? A box is required for those type of receipticals.
Dusty_R
Explorer
Jul 15, 2018
pianotuna wrote:
Hi wa8yxm,

I could not agree more.

I replaced all but one of the outlets in my RV with good quality screw terminal type ones.

Did you install a box with those good quality screw terminal type ones? A box is required for those type of receipticals.

wa8yxm wrote:
NOTE that most RV wiring is not really up to 15 amps. The "Quick Box" type outlet (Brand in my beast) are **** in my professional opinion. Space heaters and other big loads toast 'em to a crackley crunch on occasion. and that's not good.. I lost one myself. as well as two wire to wire connections (Stranded to solid) I put in 12 ga fed 15/20's for space heaters NO problems period .
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jul 15, 2018
Hi Doug,

The wire is fine. wa8yxm was suggesting that the "stab" connectors are less than splendid. I agree with him. For a 100 watt load they are fine--but lets try an induction cooker--or a heater. For those purposes they are not well suited.

I replaced all but one of my outlets with good quality screw terminal ones. I recommend that to anyone who wishes to run a high load device.

I also added a dedicated inverter outlet in the kitchen area. That makes it easy to have the toaster, induction cooker, and coffee pot all powered at the same time without over loading the OEM 15 amp outlet.

dougrainer wrote:

3. RV wiring not up to 15 amps? BS. The problem is, people connect TOO MUCH appliances on the circuits in an RV and overload the existing 15 amp systems. Doug
SoundGuy
Explorer
Jul 15, 2018
wa8yxm wrote:
I love these absolutes like "All RV A/Cs shoudl be on 20 amp breakers"

dougrainer wrote:
1. 99% of RV AC's require a 20 amp.

2. Your "professional opinion"?????? You are a retired State Employee. That makes you an expert on NOTHING, especially RV's.

3. RV wiring not up to 15 amps? BS. The problem is, people connect TOO MUCH appliances on the circuits in an RV and overload the existing 15 amp systems. Doug

Absolutely, on all points ... X2. :D
dougrainer
Nomad
Jul 15, 2018
wa8yxm wrote:
I love these absolutes like "All RV A/Cs shoudl be on 20 amp breakers"

FOr 13,500 and 15,000 BTU units. I'd say that is likely true.

But they make some smaller units that might well take a 15.. Don't know as I don't have one. (I have twin 15Ks)

However I'd be interested in knowing if the problem is;
1 Breaker on generator
2: Breaker on Inverter or sub panel
3: Burned connection.

NOTE that most RV wiring is not really up to 15 amps. The "Quick Box" type outlet (Brand in my beast) are **** in my professional opinion. Space heaters and other big loads toast 'em to a crackley crunch on occasion. and that's not good.. I lost one myself. as well as two wire to wire connections (Stranded to solid) I put in 12 ga fed 15/20's for space heaters NO problems period .

1. 99% of RV AC's require a 20 amp.
2. Your "professional opinion"?????? You are a retired State Employee. That makes you an expert on NOTHING, especially RV's.
3. RV wiring not up to 15 amps? BS. The problem is, people connect TOO MUCH appliances on the circuits in an RV and overload the existing 15 amp systems. Doug
Big_Love
Explorer
Jul 15, 2018
My A Frame trailer has a Dometic Cool Cat A/C-heat pump rated at 10.5 BTU that runs on 15A breaker. It pulls 11A cooling and 9A heating on 120v.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jul 14, 2018
Hi wa8yxm,

I could not agree more.

I replaced all but one of the outlets in my RV with good quality screw terminal type ones.

wa8yxm wrote:
NOTE that most RV wiring is not really up to 15 amps. The "Quick Box" type outlet (Brand in my beast) are **** in my professional opinion. Space heaters and other big loads toast 'em to a crackley crunch on occasion. and that's not good.. I lost one myself. as well as two wire to wire connections (Stranded to solid) I put in 12 ga fed 15/20's for space heaters NO problems period .
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jul 14, 2018
I love these absolutes like "All RV A/Cs shoudl be on 20 amp breakers"

FOr 13,500 and 15,000 BTU units. I'd say that is likely true.

But they make some smaller units that might well take a 15.. Don't know as I don't have one. (I have twin 15Ks)

However I'd be interested in knowing if the problem is;
1 Breaker on generator
2: Breaker on Inverter or sub panel
3: Burned connection.

NOTE that most RV wiring is not really up to 15 amps. The "Quick Box" type outlet (Brand in my beast) are **** in my professional opinion. Space heaters and other big loads toast 'em to a crackley crunch on occasion. and that's not good.. I lost one myself. as well as two wire to wire connections (Stranded to solid) I put in 12 ga fed 15/20's for space heaters NO problems period .
TexasUltra
Explorer
Jul 14, 2018
Thanks ALL! It was the breaker on the GenSet. :S

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Is A/C on GFCI circuit

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