Jack stand under scissor jack?

Just an update. Haven't received it yet, and 99% positive that my 4,500 lbs trailer will be more than happy with it, but already have buyer's remorse. Photo few posts above is aluminum jack stand that I ordered - 6,000 lbs 2.5 ton.

Should've ordered this: Torin Jack Stand. Photo below. They come in 2 ton, same price as those that I ordered, or 3 ton - more expensive. Although not aluminum - this makes a BIG difference on the coast where I am - its lifting mechanism looks better than the first one with screw. Probably easier to operate under load?

Dr Quick wrote:
I would assume that strength of steel frame is designed to support a maximum load between the axle location and front support point.

Yes. I think they balance an unloaded trailer (but loaded with all the appliances) so that most of weight is a little fore of the axle, but not too far from the axle. So there is a little weight on the tongue.

Fist off, the cement blocks shown were used wrong. A cement blocks strength is in setting in a normal upright position. And most preferably to have something like a 2X8 board on top to spread load over block.
Also supporting a trailer at all 4 corners would most likely place stress on the frame. I would assume that strength of steel frame is designed to support a maximum load between the axle location and front support point. Not from end to end of trailer. Projection beyond the axle to the back would be considered a cantilever, and about 1/2 the length of the front span.
To support load for the full length of the frame would probably require a structural frame about twice the size.

Almot wrote:
Ok, ordered these stands. I hear complaints all the time on how dangerously wobbly they are. People put 20mm nut on the the screw - below the hub - to make it more stable.

In my 23 ft trailer - 21 ft box - 6 or 8 ft aft of the double axle will put it pretty much in the rear corner.
6-8 ft fore of the axles - yes, this would be before the front end.

That 6 to 8 ft. was really for my trailer 31' and that position is basically 1/2 way from each axle to the end/front so on much shorter trailers as your about 1/3 to 1/2 way from the axle to the end should be about right and you might have to experiment some on the exact placement for the best support. One key is you have to get good pressure on them and you can't get that with just the screw on jack, but must use the tongue jack and lower the front enough to get a good inch or two from level at the point you put the jack and then snug the jack up and then raise the front the same inch and then snug up the front ones then lower the tongue until the tongue jack foot is loose then snug the tongue jack up so you have some support there as well. On a very short trailer the inch might have to be closer to maybe 1.5 inches and all this is trial and error till you get the right amount of support.

Larry

Ok, ordered these stands. I hear complaints all the time on how dangerously wobbly they are. People put 20mm nut on the the screw - below the hub - to make it more stable.

In my 23 ft trailer - 21 ft box - 6 or 8 ft aft of the double axle will put it pretty much in the rear corner.
6-8 ft fore of the axles - yes, this would be before the front end.

LarryJM wrote:

Almot wrote:
Dutchmensport - Jack stand I was talking about, was not a hydraulic bottle jack. It was this:
It is not very strong.

Bull Hocky ... each of those stands are rated at 6K

OTH, hydraulic bottle jacks are very strong and are the only tool that should be used for lifting a trailer for servicing wheels etc. I've been told not to leave a hydraulic jack in extended position for long time, or the shaft will corrode.

This jack stand on the photo will corrode too, if not lubricated often. Some stands of this type are aluminum, but only the frame, while the screw is steel.

Yes the screw is some sort of metal, but I have been using the same set of these EXCLUSIVELY for the last 34 years on two different trailers w/o doing doing any maintenance or lubrication on them and they are 95% rust free with only slight rust on the very top support ring

Cement blocks (or fake cement, whatever) can't always be placed on the end, there might not be enough room. But they sure need a solid, flat and wide support both below and above.

As already mentioned the normal scissor stab jacks are only stable in one direction (basically) straight up because of all the pivot points and arms necessary in the design so they can be extended/retracted. By putting proper weight on those jack stands you can get very close to the performance of cinder blocks. Due to the very poor performance of the normal stab jacks, I completely removed mine over 7 years ago and have been using four of those jack stands at the correct locations for a ROCK SOLID trailer. BTW the proper location is not at the corners of the trailer but approx 6 to 8 feet in front and behind the two axles on a tandem trailer and the proper weight I have found and documented is around 300 to 400 lbs of weight on each jack stand.

Larry

Yes, exactly the same type. Not hydraulic.... correct! These have been around for a long-long time. I call them bottle, opposed to scissor type jacks. And you are right, they are not hydraulic. These are very strong, still!

Almot wrote:
Dutchmensport - Jack stand I was talking about, was not a hydraulic bottle jack. It was this:
It is not very strong.

Bull Hocky ... each of those stands are rated at 6K

OTH, hydraulic bottle jacks are very strong and are the only tool that should be used for lifting a trailer for servicing wheels etc. I've been told not to leave a hydraulic jack in extended position for long time, or the shaft will corrode.

This jack stand on the photo will corrode too, if not lubricated often. Some stands of this type are aluminum, but only the frame, while the screw is steel.

Yes the screw is some sort of metal, but I have been using the same set of these EXCLUSIVELY for the last 34 years on two different trailers w/o doing doing any maintenance or lubrication on them and they are 95% rust free with only slight rust on the very top support ring

Cement blocks (or fake cement, whatever) can't always be placed on the end, there might not be enough room. But they sure need a solid, flat and wide support both below and above.

As already mentioned the normal scissor stab jacks are only stable in one direction (basically) straight up because of all the pivot points and arms necessary in the design so they can be extended/retracted. By putting proper weight on those jack stands you can get very close to the performance of cinder blocks. Due to the very poor performance of the normal stab jacks, I completely removed mine over 7 years ago and have been using four of those jack stands at the correct locations for a ROCK SOLID trailer. BTW the proper location is not at the corners of the trailer but approx 6 to 8 feet in front and behind the two axles on a tandem trailer and the proper weight I have found and documented is around 300 to 400 lbs of weight on each jack stand.

Larry

Dutchmensport - Jack stand I was talking about, was not a hydraulic bottle jack. It was this:
It is not very strong.
OTH, hydraulic bottle jacks are very strong and are the only tool that should be used for lifting a trailer for servicing wheels etc. I've been told not to leave a hydraulic jack in extended position for long time, or the shaft will corrode.

This jack stand on the photo will corrode too, if not lubricated often. Some stands of this type are aluminum, but only the frame, while the screw is steel.

Cement blocks (or fake cement, whatever) can't always be placed on the end, there might not be enough room. But they sure need a solid, flat and wide support both below and above.

I think the theory is the jack stand is More stable.

Now, so long as the scissor jacks are FULLY retracted, I see no harm in it but if one extends the Scissor jacks at all.. Asking for a serious "Let down" followed by a major Fix Up.