keeping warm

Hi Time2Roll,

I did consider going to a 50 amp service--but I rarely connect to 50 amp. I can do quite well to -30 c (-22 f) if there are 3 15 amp shore power plugs available, without exceed 80% of total capacity.

I often use 2 15 amp shore power supplies and I can be comfortable at -12 C (10.4 f)

pianotuna wrote:
Hi time2roll,

The limitation is the shore power cords. I have an OEM 30, a 20, and a 15 amp.

My 50 amp "break out box" (which includes breakers) has a 30 amp outlet on one leg, and twin 20 amp outlets on the other leg. It means it is unbalanced to some extent.

For all the effort do you ever look back and think to just upgrade the RV panel to 50 amp service?

At least you have quiet neighbors

Update

2018 03 29 at 10:30 p.m. local time.

Ambient temperature -27.2 c (-17 f) measured on the picnic table with a "gun".

I added a radiant heater, so energy use has climbed to 5700 watts (voltage 104), but the oil filled heaters are still cycling on and off, so the low number is about 3500 watts.

The 5700 watt number converts to about 19449 BTU's, which is near the maximum output of the furnace. I doubt that the furnace would cycle off at all.

I "shot" the three shore power cords. They were about 8 degrees C warmer than the ambient temperature at -19 C (-2.2f). The 50 amp plug at the pedestal was also -19 C.

The temperature measurement at the fridge side access panel and vent was -10 c (14 f). It has a 60 watt bulb on a tc-3 thermocube.

Mex the roof is 21.2 C (70 f) and at "hip" height the walls are 18 C (64 f). The entrance way "step" is at -3.5 C (26 f). Of course there is really no insulation at all in that area of the RV.

At knee level it is hard to get a reading that is not influenced by the heated carpets or the oil filled heaters. The coldest spot I could find was 15 c (59 f). Mostly I got readings of 20 c (68 f).

I still have one more heater I could put into service, but I think I'll not bother.

When I had an old Superior school bus in a cold climate I fired a tunnel type propane heater from outside and 15' distance. The heat went under the bus. I would raise the inside temp to 90F stop the heater and four hours later have to repeat the process.

Measure your temperature at the ceiling. How much warmer is it than at knee level?

100F ears and 40F knees ain't too cool...

Triker33,

I deliberately purchased a no slide RV. But that is good advice.

Quote:
I will never use an unvented combustion heater
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God helps those that help themselves

It is cool here this morning at 6:30AM it is only 72º outside.

For the OP if you have slides pull one or two in. And have less space to heat.

Hi,

The Espar heaters are a "delux" item and I'd love to have one. I'd have to use the gasoline version. However, since the campground includes unmetered electric, I'm better off not burning fuel that I have to pay for.

At 4500 watts I'm extracting about 15354 BTU's. At 7000 watts, about 23884 BTU's (more than the total output of the propane furnace).

If I could find a location where there were three 15 amp circuits I would not have to be paying the campground $265.00 per week.

It is -9 C (16 f) and the float voltage for the battery bank is 14.1.

free radical wrote:
Have you considered investing in Espar diesel heater?
I have one rated at 7500 btu in my TC and its very eficient,used couple galons a week in minus 20c..draws about 20% from 100amhr batery all night runing..

Hi time2roll,

The limitation is the shore power cords. I have an OEM 30, a 20, and a 15 amp.

My 50 amp "break out box" (which includes breakers) has a 30 amp outlet on one leg, and twin 20 amp outlets on the other leg. It means it is unbalanced to some extent.

My peak load is about 7000 watts, but with heaters cycling on and off it varies between 3000 and 4500 watts.

Voltage @ 4500 watts is 108. I did consider using the Sola Basic on the 30 amp leg to boost the voltage. It is interesting to see how the twin 20 amp leg "drags down" the voltage on the 30 amp leg.

Wattage is not calculated but is a reading from the watt meter.