Own a 2006 Fleetwood Bounder 35E Class A MH. Rear bathroom sink was not draining well. I took it completely apart and cleaned out the gunk in the drain tube and P-trap. I'm a little familiar with home sink repairs, so knew I would need plumber's putty. However, the "putty" that was there was very, very sticky. I had to use a solvent to get everything cleaned up. This had me worried. I pressed on with "regular" plumber's putty. After a few weeks of having a dry paper towel under the P-trap, I thought I was golden. Then a leak started. it is coming from where the drain and the sink connect. Took it apart and it looks like the plumber's putty was, I wouldn't say dissolving, but something like it. I cleaned everything up and prepared to redo the plumbers putty. Read the container. Says not to use on plastic components! Use Oatey Sillicone Sealant instead. Having an issue finding the recommended putty locally. Everything I'm working on is plastic!! Maybe that's why the previous stuff was very sticky. I don't know what that material is. Need your help identifying. Gonna use the normal stuff just so I can get the sink operational. Will have to redo once I get the "correct" stuff.

You use putty on metal/ceramic or silicone on plastic drains where they attach to the sink itself. You dont use any of that stuff on the P-trap.

OK this search term: plumbers putty for plastic produced that page. You will find what you need there I hope.

agesilaus wrote:OK this search term: plumbers putty for plastic produced that page. You will find what you need there I hope.None of the plumbers putty on that page is for use on plastic. Your search is just hitting on "plumbers putty" and not "plastic".The Loc-tite stuff is for patching leaks. I strongly recommend people just do it right and skip junk like this.Never use plumbers putty on plastic of any sort!

Problem with RVs is when they are not used they get way hotter inside in the summer than a house and normal putty doesn't fare well. Example. Leave a candle on the counter of both your house and RV in August for a week....

The first one on the page was mentioned to be suitable for ABS

Leaking Bathroom Sink | Good Sam Community

proaspen
Explorer
Dec 19, 2019
Thanks to all for the responses. I have some silicone tub/tile caulk and will use that one. LOL on the candle comment! Thanks again! Great forum for advice. Have a Merry Christmas (or Happy Holidays, you choose) and a safe New Years. Off to Key West (flying) on Monday! Back on 3 Jan. Staying with son and family stationed (USAF) there for the next couple of years.
mobeewan
Explorer
Dec 19, 2019
proaspen wrote:
Own a 2006 Fleetwood Bounder 35E Class A MH. Rear bathroom sink was not draining well. I took it completely apart and cleaned out the gunk in the drain tube and P-trap. I'm a little familiar with home sink repairs, so knew I would need plumber's putty. However, the "putty" that was there was very, very sticky. I had to use a solvent to get everything cleaned up. This had me worried. I pressed on with "regular" plumber's putty. After a few weeks of having a dry paper towel under the P-trap, I thought I was golden. Then a leak started. it is coming from where the drain and the sink connect. Took it apart and it looks like the plumber's putty was, I wouldn't say dissolving, but something like it. I cleaned everything up and prepared to redo the plumbers putty. Read the container. Says not to use on plastic components! Use Oatey Sillicone Sealant instead. Having an issue finding the recommended putty locally. Everything I'm working on is plastic!! Maybe that's why the previous stuff was very sticky. I don't know what that material is. Need your help identifying. Gonna use the normal stuff just so I can get the sink operational. Will have to redo once I get the "correct" stuff.

They probably used grey butyl tape. It is stickier than the putty tape which is more like clay. It appears to be what they used in my trailer bathroom.

They used it on the tub flange and in between the plastic sink and countertop. It works, it's water resistant and it's what they have on hand when they're building trailers. I used it when I took the tub drain out and resealed it. I also used it when I put a new Moen faucet in the bathroom. The tub drain was crooked because they did a bad job installing the drain piping under the tub. They used a long sweep tee with an inch stub of pipe connecting to the P-trap instead of a short sweep tee and correct length piece of pipe. The plumbing was actually pushing on the tub drain causing it to buckle the fiberglass tub floor around the drain. It hasn't leaked for several years. I check it from time to time and also have a piece of paper towel sitting under it.
Almot
Explorer III
Dec 21, 2019
Need to have a close look at mine, but I "think" there is no putty of any kind used on the P-trap and btw the P-trap and drain pipe that goes to gray tank. Only gaskets and permanently glued joints.
There is some goo btw the sink and the counter, and it looks like a silicone caulk from big box store. Probably several varieties would work as there is no permanent water pressure around the sink edge unless you are at the bottom of the sea :).
proaspen
Explorer
Dec 21, 2019
Almot: thanks for the response. Copy nothing on P-trap. The "goop" is only on the sink drain where it connects to the sink. Going to use either a silicone based caulk, or butyl rubber tape.

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