Least resistance?

Fuse. It's also a lot more accurate and less subject to temperature tantrum.

Hi,

The connections to the fuse and circuit breaker may have more resistance than the actual devices (the fuse wins, but is less convenient). Are these to be used on the input side? If so, how many watts are we talking about?

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Fuse. It's also a lot more accurate and less subject to temperature tantrum.

X2

Which part of the system?

I want to be able to work on and test the panels,CC and batteries etc and not get zapped.
I have already taken more than my share of 50,000V rides on the elect train, and it's NO fun.

But, not sure which way to go with fuses or breakers or some other type of disconnects?
I know, I have to have some type of disconnect/shutoff between the CC and batteries etc for safety reasons.

At this time, the battery bank will be 4-220+a GC batteries, (I can and will add more), if needed to balance out the 4-220W panels with 2 panel strings in series and 2 in parallel providing power to a MS Mppt 60a CC.

I have not made up my mind about the MS 2012 inverter, at this time.

I am reading, all the solar setups via the members etc and I am really impressed with the setups.
I just wish there was More info given on why they choose to do what they did on their setups etc.

Tia,
Don

Circuit breaker is easier to reset and can be used as a switch.
I ended up with a fuse between battery and controller but in hindsight a bussman hi-amp breaker would have been useful.

I have zero resistence between my controller and converter (batt) :)

Hi nvreloader,

I had a #10 prewire. I wanted MPPT for the controller. I wanted essentially "break proof" panels. So I chose unisolar and wired the panels in series/parallel to give me an input voltage of 33 to keep line losses low.

I wanted temperature compensated charging and a good quality controller, so I picked Blue Sky.

nvreloader wrote:
I am reading, all the solar setups via the members etc and I am really impressed with the setups.
I just wish there was More info given on why they choose to do what they did on their setups etc.

Tia,
Don

nvreloader wrote:
I want to be able to work on and test the panels,CC and batteries etc and not get zapped.

Once my system was in, the only reason to ever disconnect was to install new batteries. That was handled by simply removing the battery wires.

Some people cover the panels with a blanket or cardboard to 'disconnect' them... or work at night.

I was prowling around checking wire spec's etc and stumbled onto this wire, appears to have some posiblities for the CC/inverter to battery run. Some the car audio stuff may be usefull also.

I know the MS CC can only take #2 awg wire, but I think I can swage a copper sleeve over this wire and get it small enough to fit the MS CC attachment place and then I can use this larger size for better performance etc.

See info here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Flex-4-Gauge-Red-OFC-Power-Wire-2058-Strands-Copper-/390591521983?pt=US_Car_Audio_Power_Speaker_Wire&hash=item5af111a4bf#ht_1427wt_1047

Here is what I was looking at,
http://www.genuinedealz.com/4-awg-gauge-battery-cable-tinned-copper-marine-wire-black-by-the-foot

Tia,
Don