LED Lighting Panel Module Insert Quandary...
I've tried to follow all the discussions as best I can regarding substitute LED module models, price, performance, durability, etc. But I got lost in the process. It seems new models constantly app...
Forum Discussion
Mex,
I've got dozens of LED bulbs with the T10/194 type wedge base as I was seeking white without blue, very bright light. I kind of got fed up with ordering 4 bulbs and they would all be slightly different shades, and not bright enough.
Then in a quest for brighter reverse lights I got some LED 1156 bulbs with CREE led's. Very white, very bright, but did not work very well in my reverse light housing.
Anyway I really liked the CREE light output being bright and very white. I ruined those 1156 Cree's and ordered some more for my regular fixtures. However I mistakenly ordered t-20 base instead of t-10.
When they arrived I found the light output was as expected. But I needed a way to house them.
I was in the 99 cent store and saw a little gooseneck LED light designed to run off of 3 AA batteries. 4.5 volts.
Anyway long story short, I modified both LED and gooseneck light, and have by far the best light compared to any others I've used/seen.
I'd estimate light output at close to 300 lumens. A bright, well defined cone of light projected at a ~50 degree angle. Pure white.
I made two of these lights and am extremely satisfied. with the amount of light, the color and where I can aim it, without the bulb itself visible to my eye.
These lights draw 0.12 amps each at 12.6v. 2 CREE t20 bulbs, 14$, two 99 cent store gooseneck lamps, 2$. I spent some time modifying, tinkering, and soldering and pulling thicker wire through the goosneck, but I like doing those things.
I know it is not a direct replacement for an existing fixture but when one can't find what they need, they make what they want/need and that's how Mexicans think, in my experience.
Here are the t20 base bulbs I bought.
RHX t20 CREE LED
They do not get extremely hot. The 1156 based bulbs I bought and ruined were 0.18 amps, with a heavier thicker heatsink. There is no getting at the internals on those 1156's I spent some time with a hammer and various implements to assuage my curiosity.
Here is the LED driver. I had to resolder on a tab:
An excellent task light, and when aimed at my white ceiling, an excellent ambient light.
I've got dozens of LED bulbs with the T10/194 type wedge base as I was seeking white without blue, very bright light. I kind of got fed up with ordering 4 bulbs and they would all be slightly different shades, and not bright enough.
Then in a quest for brighter reverse lights I got some LED 1156 bulbs with CREE led's. Very white, very bright, but did not work very well in my reverse light housing.
Anyway I really liked the CREE light output being bright and very white. I ruined those 1156 Cree's and ordered some more for my regular fixtures. However I mistakenly ordered t-20 base instead of t-10.
When they arrived I found the light output was as expected. But I needed a way to house them.
I was in the 99 cent store and saw a little gooseneck LED light designed to run off of 3 AA batteries. 4.5 volts.
Anyway long story short, I modified both LED and gooseneck light, and have by far the best light compared to any others I've used/seen.
I'd estimate light output at close to 300 lumens. A bright, well defined cone of light projected at a ~50 degree angle. Pure white.
I made two of these lights and am extremely satisfied. with the amount of light, the color and where I can aim it, without the bulb itself visible to my eye.
These lights draw 0.12 amps each at 12.6v. 2 CREE t20 bulbs, 14$, two 99 cent store gooseneck lamps, 2$. I spent some time modifying, tinkering, and soldering and pulling thicker wire through the goosneck, but I like doing those things.
I know it is not a direct replacement for an existing fixture but when one can't find what they need, they make what they want/need and that's how Mexicans think, in my experience.
Here are the t20 base bulbs I bought.
RHX t20 CREE LED
They do not get extremely hot. The 1156 based bulbs I bought and ruined were 0.18 amps, with a heavier thicker heatsink. There is no getting at the internals on those 1156's I spent some time with a hammer and various implements to assuage my curiosity.
Here is the LED driver. I had to resolder on a tab:
An excellent task light, and when aimed at my white ceiling, an excellent ambient light.
