Lighting Partial No Power

After all the tests known to man, with no luck, I decided to just pull new wires through. What a PIA. I drilled access holes that would stay hidden, but only one is visible. I will hide with a block off plate. I found the broken spot in the wire. It was visible. I ran one more continuity check on the piece of wire I suspected, and sure enough it was broken. It looked like it had been pinched at some point in time, and heat from resistance finished it. That would also explain why the copper wire was black looking. Time to run a new pair of wires and hook it all back together.

I checked both wires with a signal generator. I traced the wires up the wall to the ceiling. I got a close up view of the wire ends and the pos side looks dark like excess heat. I would have to guess from resistance. I need to procure something to clean the bare end so I can splice back together. I don't have any scotch brite handy, or copper cleaner. Soldering paste might work, but I need to find a soldering gun to heat it up. I can't win, lol.

I have 12V at the end of the coiled wire where it goes into the bottom of the slide. The splices are bare wire ends with wire nuts. Inside the slide, the +- pair goes in the wall to the ceiling. When I checked for 12V at this point, I had 12V, but nothing at the ceiling/fixture location. So I disconnected the wires and checked each wire for continuity and found only one wire had continuity. I clipped and stripped the wire ends, but still nothing. This is the only 12V source in the slide.
BTW, I am in Glendale Az.

David, Lack of continuity does not necessarily mean that the wire itself is broken. Not all crimp wire fittings are created equal and neither are the installers. I have found crimp fittings where the conductor was not touching the fitting but crimped around the insulation.

My first inclination would be to disconnect both ends of the wire and replace the fittings or if you have really good probes for your DMM(I'm assuming that is what you are using for trouble shooting), pierce the insulation with the probe tip on each end of the wire and see if you pick up continuity.

Peterson soft mount Clearance lights are notorious for the crimp fitting not touching the brass fitting inside the light.

If the wire is bad, it may be possible to tap off any other 12vdc source in the slide. My cabin/LR slide has more than one source wire from the stationary wall to the slide.

I agree with ScottG, don't try and remove the paneling glued to the slide, that is a lot of work and ultimately very expensive.

You signature says you're in Glendale is that AZ, CA or ?. If it is CA, PM me and maybe we can get together to see what can be done, I'm less than 5 miles from Glendale, CA.

In mine, they went up through the metal channel in the corner that is used to attach the two walls together. There was no way to get to it.
I would not try to separate the paneling from the wall if your walls are laminated.