Forum Discussion

mholman's avatar
mholman
Explorer
Sep 21, 2013

lights flicker when putting out slides

I have recently replaced all the 12 volt light bulbs with LEDs.
(cheap china)
I have noticed that with the lights off that when i first push the switch to put the slides out the lights flicker once.
any ideas?

7 Replies

  • Check your converter. It may be dying, and not charging up your batteries. Check the batteeries. Are they holding a charge?
  • ktmrfs's avatar
    ktmrfs
    Explorer III
    mholman wrote:
    Remember the light switch is off when this happens.


    then you definitely have a voltage spike or some form of grounding issue backfeeding into a light circuit. do all the lights fliker or only some of them?
  • Positive Oriented Transients

    Negative Oriented Transients

    Try the cap. If that doesn't do it we'll add a de-spiking diode.
  • ktmrfs's avatar
    ktmrfs
    Explorer III
    mholman wrote:
    I have recently replaced all the 12 volt light bulbs with LEDs.
    (cheap china)
    I have noticed that with the lights off that when i first push the switch to put the slides out the lights flicker once.
    any ideas?


    your info on the LED's is the first clue. More than likely they do NOT have any voltage regulation, just a dropping resistor to sort of set the current to the LED's. So when you hit the slide switch, several things happen. First, the motor inrush current is very large, this drops the battery voltage. the LED's are extremely senstive to voltage across the LED a slight drop in voltage results in a big drop in light output. that drop may only last a fraction of a second, but the LED responds immediately. then as the voltage comes back up, they brighten up.

    Next, as Mex mentions, inductive loads result in voltage and current spikes that can cause additional havock with this type of LED drive circuits. Try Mex's trick to see if it fixes it.

    BTW I have LED's with real current regulation and filtering for spikes on the panel, they are basically imune to such issues, and are much brighter and will easily tolerate voltage spikes and voltage range from below 10V to above 18V with the same constant light output. But the cost is more than the non regulated ones.
  • Put a 2,000 uf electrolytic capacitor across the positive and negative FUSE terminals that feed the lights. You'll have to put the capacitor inside the fuse panel. Motors create inductive reactance which means man-eating spikes and surges in the electric system. You could clamp the motors with Motorola MR2535 avalanche rectifiers which would do the same thing. Will this eventually hurt the LED's? Yes. How quickly? Anyone's guess. You'll see it in the form of fewer and fewer LED's lighting up in each panel.

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