Lithium battery charging in FW of truck
Can someone please explain. 2015 F350 alternator 200-220A, wire to rear of truck not clear on gage but about 20’, wire from plug to FW batteries 15’ or more supposedly protected by 30A fuse. I se peop...
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May not be what you are looking for, but I have the Renogy 20 amp DC-DC in the truck camper and use that instead of 7-pin charging. The 7-pin 12v wire in the truck has a 40 amp fuse, so that indicates what the wire can stand.
I made the 7-pin 12v wire in the camper the pos input to the Renogy instead of having it on the battery as usual. It does a steady 20 amps no matter what the alternator voltage is, and pulls maybe 30 amps from the truck, so that is within that wire's ampacity and 40 amp fuse. Much better amps than using the 7-pin itself.
You can add the 20 amps to whatever solar amps you get if you set the Renogy DC-DC to the same voltage (it has some choices) as your solar controller's set Vabs.
You have a bigger alternator than in my truck so in theory, you could get the bigger amp DC-DC than the 20, but then you run into wiring ampacity issues where the 40 amper (output) will pull 60 amps input from the truck.
You could do something clever with the winch wiring so it is powered without turning on the winch.
I used a 12v connection in the camper instead of using the truck ignition method to turn the DC-DC on/off. Be same in the 5er. You want the DC-DC near the house batts, so it would not go in the truck like they would have it in a MH.
I made the 7-pin 12v wire in the camper the pos input to the Renogy instead of having it on the battery as usual. It does a steady 20 amps no matter what the alternator voltage is, and pulls maybe 30 amps from the truck, so that is within that wire's ampacity and 40 amp fuse. Much better amps than using the 7-pin itself.
You can add the 20 amps to whatever solar amps you get if you set the Renogy DC-DC to the same voltage (it has some choices) as your solar controller's set Vabs.
You have a bigger alternator than in my truck so in theory, you could get the bigger amp DC-DC than the 20, but then you run into wiring ampacity issues where the 40 amper (output) will pull 60 amps input from the truck.
You could do something clever with the winch wiring so it is powered without turning on the winch.
I used a 12v connection in the camper instead of using the truck ignition method to turn the DC-DC on/off. Be same in the 5er. You want the DC-DC near the house batts, so it would not go in the truck like they would have it in a MH.
