Lithium Confusion

time2roll wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
If you have an inverter/charger, you must have the battery connected to it or you get nothing (unlike with a converter). How do you still get 12v to the rig and not float the battery?

Float is fine at a reasonable voltage. It is the PD converter designed for Li battery that will actually kill the Li battery. Insane.

Perhaps that PD profile is to avoid dropping to 13.x before the Li batt is to 100% SOC, per this from a link provided by Itinerant1 in the BB thread. (ISTR a BB comment on that too--will edit it in if found)

"A LiFePO4 battery can be safely overcharged to 4.2 voltsper cell, but higher voltages will start to break down the organicelectrolytes. Nevertheless, it is common to charge a 12 volt a 4-cell seriespack with a lead acid battery charger. The maximum voltage of these chargers,whether AC powered, or using a car's alternator, is 14.4 volts. This worksfine, but lead acid chargers will lower their voltage to 13.8 volts for thefloat charge, and so will usually terminate before the LiFe pack is at 100%.For this reason a special LiFe charger is required to reliably get to 100%capacity."

https://www.powerstream.com/LLLF.htm

It seems you then turn it off at 100% or now drop to 13.x for floating. That you do not leave it to float at 14.x is clear. There is some advice not to leave it floating at 13.x for a long time either, which the OP has seen, and wants a timer to limit his float time. AFAIK there is no automatic charger that will hold to 100% in the CV stage and then drop to Float.

The PD with CW has the auto drop to Float and then Storage but no timer for floating and it drops to Float before the battery is to 100%.

That should not matter if the Li does not need to get to 100%, which is often seen, but then why the emphasis on getting to 100% as in the above quote?

Since I am not allowed to speculate on that :) those who do have Li batts in their RVs can explain it better if they wish. ---I see Iteinerant1 has posted so will check that out.