Load testing an RV battery?

Yes. I bought a 500 amp carbon pile load tester from Harbor Freight. It has directions for testing a starting battery, and for testing a deep cycle battery.

Last winter, DW's 6 year old car battery died. I put a charger on it and charged it up, then used the load tester on it. The battery tested good so I left it in the car. She had no further problems. I figure she was doing a lot of short distance driving that didn't allow enough time for the battery to recharge after starting.

I have 4 6-volt "Sam's Club Golf Cart Batteries marked 2005. I live in COLD NH and they have made it w/o issues thru MANY COLD winters. Just make sure they are 100% charged & disconnected during the winter months.
When they go flat they freeze like a GIANT 6-Volt golf cart battery/popcicle! LOL

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Can a RV battery be load tested at an Auto Store.. Well. As the older gentelmen answered when the researcher said "Briefs or Boxers".... DEPENDS.

On the store in this case.. Some can, Some can not.

The adjustable load tester I have says it's good for 500 amps. has hit 460 the proper load for a GC-2 pair is closer to 700 (I am not going to do the math)

This load tester is a fairly common size.. The Store may have one that goes higher or, in some cases does not even have a load tester, Just "Other functions" .

That said: When a battery pair (mine is a 12 volt tester) Fails the load test,, IT IS BAD, no question about that.

Just that passing does not guarantee it's up to full capacity.

Now, a load tester with a properly technician (RARE combination) Hard to beat.

X2 PT and Niner

If batteries are fully 100% topped of and equalize charged before storage, and completely disconnected, they have a very, very good chance of coming out of winter in fine shape, provided they are not ancient and on their last legs.

I'd give them a full charge, then a separate equalization charge, and then measure the specific gravity. If the SG checks out to within 10 points per cell, it's OK.. 5 points or less is, of course better.

I don't like doing full load tests, as it takes one more cycle out of a battery, in terms of stressing the cr*p out of the battery, but it is the true "acid test" for a dead or dying battery, when everything else tests out OK, but the battery is still appearing to be failing.

How about a Batteries Plus store?

Hi,

You may want to equalize the battery before it is tested. Do check the electrolyte level and make sure it covers the plates.

Fully charge the battery
Check the levels again and add distilled water if needed
Fully charge the battery again
Then do a deliberate over charge with a manual battery charger until there is one "bubble" per second coming off each of the cells

I use mine on my RV battery. :)

Appreciate the info. The "12V Side..." has a lot of good info! A lot of stuff of which I am familiar and much more that I was unaware! Will need to digest more of it later, thanks for the link!

Going to help a friend "de-hibernate" her camper; will pull the battery, check the level and put a slow overnight charge on it and take to the local NAPA in a day or so. The batt is 3 yrs old and was left un-maintained over this winter. Might be hard pressed to expect another year for 2-3 day boondocking trips in which it runs just the basics: water pump, occasional light (but mostly headlamp and flashlights for illumination), furnace fan before taking a quick shower.

Yes, if both RV and auto battery are Flooded Lead Acid types, the same tester can be used. The best load tester is a carbon pile tester. A tester should never damage a battery. Yes, your local auto parts store can test your batteries.