Loaded V vs OCV for DOD Lifeline AGMs ?
Anyone explain this please? They have 50% at 12.15v loaded at the 20hr rate, but say it is 12.18v OCV. Shouldn't the loaded voltage be farther down from the OCV than that? (Appendix in link) h...
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I thought Lifeline's conditioning charge was 15.5v for 8 hours after a regular 'ful' charge was completed. You raise it to 16v based on battery temp?
I've only briefly allowed my Northstar over 15v, and use Odyssey's reconditioning procedure which basically says draw down to 10V under the load of the headlights (~15 amps) then use 40% of the 10 hour charge rate until amps taper to near zero. Odyssey and northstar are both TPPL AGMS, thin plate pure lead, so while NS does not have good literature on any recon mode I've just been using Odyssey rec's on the NS.
I have only drawn to 10.5v under load, not 10.0v and only done so twice, but post Recon mode the amps would taper lower on the next charge cycle and it would seem to take less time to taper to 0.5%.
I have a fairly new small chinese 18Ah AGM whose marketer's said to use the UB12180 spec sheet in regards to charging. That would be no more than 5.4 amps at 14.5 to 14.9v in 'cyclic' use.
I let it go on my Meanwell's 40 available amps set to 14.7v when discharged below 50%. 38 was saturation peak amperage, it quickly dropped to 32 amps and some 5 minutes later was still 25 amps. It had not risen appreciably in temperature in that time, but I was uncomfortable leaving it at 25 amp charge rate while I could not closely monitor it, so I lowered voltage until only 10 amps were flowing and raised it back up twice in passing to 14.7v.
Far in excess of the 'recommended' max charge rate on china's cheapest AGM brand. No sulfur scent, no mushroom cloud.
The amperage refused to taper to the 0.09 ampsat 14.7v, until I did a few more deep cycles, and will still occassionally refuse to taper to the 0.5% of capacity at 14.7v. The self discharge of this battery is not great, for an AGM, just like the data sheet shows.
BUt an 18AH Odyssey AGM battery was more than 3x the price.
The chinese 18Ah AGM can by itself start my engine in warm ambient temps, I got it mainly for backup jump starter duty as the degradation speed of my aged Northstar AGM from here on out is an unknown. I also wanted an easily portable 12vDC source to jumpstart others, as I hate connecting my vehicle electrically to others.
Discharging my battery to 10.5v relatively quickly is done via my inverter and a 200 watt heater, and any other DC loadsI feel like conjuring. Once the inverter alarm started screeching I used the ~10 amps of other loads to keep going towards 10.5v, then quickly apply 65 amps up to 14.7 then constant voltage it until amps stop tapering.
I can't say whether this is a good strategy for your UPG 8D, but since you can monitor temperature and have huge amperage adjustable voltage power supplies, I say try it out drain the effer well below 50% and hit it with all your charging sources in parallel. Figure out what the saturation amperage is, monitor heat build up, see if it performs better afterwards.
Obviously i am not recommending huge charge rates every time, but an occassional high amp blast from a well depleted state could dissolve some hardened sulfate that lesser currents for lesser amounts of time cannot, and restore some capacity to some degree.
I think my 38 amps into an 18AH chinese AGM nullifies the mushroom cloud theory on 27%-33% max AGMs. The 'trickle charge' fan boys would have a conniption, but that's probably good for them.
I've only briefly allowed my Northstar over 15v, and use Odyssey's reconditioning procedure which basically says draw down to 10V under the load of the headlights (~15 amps) then use 40% of the 10 hour charge rate until amps taper to near zero. Odyssey and northstar are both TPPL AGMS, thin plate pure lead, so while NS does not have good literature on any recon mode I've just been using Odyssey rec's on the NS.
I have only drawn to 10.5v under load, not 10.0v and only done so twice, but post Recon mode the amps would taper lower on the next charge cycle and it would seem to take less time to taper to 0.5%.
I have a fairly new small chinese 18Ah AGM whose marketer's said to use the UB12180 spec sheet in regards to charging. That would be no more than 5.4 amps at 14.5 to 14.9v in 'cyclic' use.
I let it go on my Meanwell's 40 available amps set to 14.7v when discharged below 50%. 38 was saturation peak amperage, it quickly dropped to 32 amps and some 5 minutes later was still 25 amps. It had not risen appreciably in temperature in that time, but I was uncomfortable leaving it at 25 amp charge rate while I could not closely monitor it, so I lowered voltage until only 10 amps were flowing and raised it back up twice in passing to 14.7v.
Far in excess of the 'recommended' max charge rate on china's cheapest AGM brand. No sulfur scent, no mushroom cloud.
The amperage refused to taper to the 0.09 ampsat 14.7v, until I did a few more deep cycles, and will still occassionally refuse to taper to the 0.5% of capacity at 14.7v. The self discharge of this battery is not great, for an AGM, just like the data sheet shows.
BUt an 18AH Odyssey AGM battery was more than 3x the price.
The chinese 18Ah AGM can by itself start my engine in warm ambient temps, I got it mainly for backup jump starter duty as the degradation speed of my aged Northstar AGM from here on out is an unknown. I also wanted an easily portable 12vDC source to jumpstart others, as I hate connecting my vehicle electrically to others.
Discharging my battery to 10.5v relatively quickly is done via my inverter and a 200 watt heater, and any other DC loadsI feel like conjuring. Once the inverter alarm started screeching I used the ~10 amps of other loads to keep going towards 10.5v, then quickly apply 65 amps up to 14.7 then constant voltage it until amps stop tapering.
I can't say whether this is a good strategy for your UPG 8D, but since you can monitor temperature and have huge amperage adjustable voltage power supplies, I say try it out drain the effer well below 50% and hit it with all your charging sources in parallel. Figure out what the saturation amperage is, monitor heat build up, see if it performs better afterwards.
Obviously i am not recommending huge charge rates every time, but an occassional high amp blast from a well depleted state could dissolve some hardened sulfate that lesser currents for lesser amounts of time cannot, and restore some capacity to some degree.
I think my 38 amps into an 18AH chinese AGM nullifies the mushroom cloud theory on 27%-33% max AGMs. The 'trickle charge' fan boys would have a conniption, but that's probably good for them.
