Looking for a "KILL A WATT" meter but for 220 volt 50 amp.

220V Kill A Watt............NO (Click why)

Changed as more information on what the OP wants is now available. An electric meter would certainly give you total power but not amps or volts.

Learjet wrote:
http://www.technorv.com/Portable_50A_Surge_Protector_Voltage_Protection_p/pg-ems-pt50c.htm

Thank you for the suggestion. I am actually looking for something where I can read off kilowatts used etc. Neat device though.

DrewE wrote:
If the car charger is purely a 240V device, or at least has practically no unbalanced (120V) circuitry, then you could build something akin to a Kill-a-watt from one of these and a box, plug, socket, bit of wire, etc. You'd connect the voltage sense lines to the two hots, and the current sense transformer over one of the hots—exactly as though it were a 240V two-wire circuit.

If the legs are used in an unbalanced fashion, you'd need two—one for each leg, with the voltages each referenced to neutral—and then have to add the energy consumption values together.

A used utility company electric meter would also do the trick, and old non-remote-read ones are not hard to come by for reasonable prices. Again, an appropriate box and wiring, etc. is needed.

Thanks for the reply. It uses a standard RV plug with four prongs. I thought about the old meter thing but am looking for something with selectable displays something like the Kill a watt. Great idea though. I'll look into it. Thanks.

If the car charger is purely a 240V device, or at least has practically no unbalanced (120V) circuitry, then you could build something akin to a Kill-a-watt from one of these and a box, plug, socket, bit of wire, etc. You'd connect the voltage sense lines to the two hots, and the current sense transformer over one of the hots—exactly as though it were a 240V two-wire circuit.

If the legs are used in an unbalanced fashion, you'd need two—one for each leg, with the voltages each referenced to neutral—and then have to add the energy consumption values together.

A used utility company electric meter would also do the trick, and old non-remote-read ones are not hard to come by for reasonable prices. Again, an appropriate box and wiring, etc. is needed.