Looking for help in figuring out why my Oven don't work?

Im having the same problem, Pilot lights ok and when you adjust it to say 350 degrees the pilot increases but not quite enough to heat up the thermocouple to let the burner light.I found a brass screw behind the thermostat knob and that screw is the pilot flame size adjustment. Guess what mine is turned up to max already. I checked the gas pressure and it is at 11.5" Which is good. Does any one know if there is a orfice at the pilot that may need cleaning.

If you use a long LPG lighter to light your oven, you will find that it takes a minute or more for gas to get to the oven pilot if you haven't used your oven in the last day or two. I installed an electric ignition system so I don't have to bend over with my head in the oven, but it still takes WAY LONGER than you think it should for that pilot to light. You CAN adjust the pilot flame to make it bigger, but it takes only a tiny movement to make it bigger than the factory adjustment. You do NOT want a big pilot light.

j-d wrote:
I gOOgled "RV RANGE 22" and got two hits at $400.00

If either is a suburban, I'm interested. If not then I need to do major cabinet mod.

In our old coach (new one doesn't have an oven), with the pilot light lit, you had to leave the oven burner at the desired temperature for a few minutes before it would light. Not sure if it's a safety feature (that's what I was told) but it always worked that way for me - light the pilot light (if it wasn't already on), close the door, set the desired temperature and a few minutes later, it would be on.

I struggled for several years trying to light my oven. I finally got sick of bending down for 5 minutes and holding the knob in. Now (probably not a good idea) instead of turning the knob to Pilot, I turn it to 170 degrees, the lowest setting and light the pilot almost immediately, then turn the knob either back to pilot or to the desired temp. So far --- I haven't blown up the motor home, but my back really feels a lot better

I gOOgled "RV RANGE 22" and got two hits at $400.00

Our Attwood/Wedgewood has no flame safety on the oven pilot. On it, the knob must be pressed to turn to PILOT and can then be released. At that point, LPG flows. If it isn't lit, the LPG continues to flow, albeit at a very small rate.
Makes me reluctant to do the electronic ignition mod. Scenario:
1. Install electronic ignition on three surface burners and oven pilot
2. Light Pilot
3. Pilot goes OUT, LPG continues to flow
4. Use electronic to light surface burner
5. Oven full of LPG makes big noise

We have one of the earlier model suburban ranges and the oven thermostat failed. We can lite the pilot and when you turn the oven control to a higher temp the secondary heater flame would come on to heat the safety device. The oven burner would not light.

As Chris stated above the the safety device has mercury in it and are no longer made. We have tried to buy a used newer model without the mercury, but no joy.

Now we are looking to buy a new 22" range to replace the old one. $700+ ugh!

This may be helpful for PARTS.
Here are other MODELS.

As for why they have not improved the design... There is not much room for improvement.

The design considerations are as follows.

We want to make sure NO gas flows if the pilot is not lit.

Thus you have a thermocouple (Electric type) that generates about 1/2 volt and at a few ma when heated.. You have an electro-magnetic valve in the T-Stat that senses that current.. The current is NOT enough to open the valve (Again a safety feature) so you do that USUALLY by pressing down on the knob.

NOTE: that often the knob MUST be in the PILOT position in order to press it.

Light the pilot, hold the knob for ONE FULL MINUTE to allow the pilot to heat the Thermocouple and generate enough current to HOLD the valve open, then release and turn to set temp. Main burner should then light.

I have found that I need to hold the lighter on the pilot and thermocouple for a while to help heat it up.