Losing Rocker Arm Switches on control panel

Every switch is a fuse if it is not rated bigger than the fuse that feeds it.

And.. I've seen some switches with very "Generous" ratings.

For example. A common toggle switch sold at one popular store is rated 20 amps. (10 would be a better rating)

Also some switches have different AC and DC ratings.

Of course, if it's the light in the switch that is popping.. (The switch still works but no light no more) there is a solution.

I have a stock of LED indicators, these are 12 volt LED assemblies that are mounted in a plastic tube about a quarter inch in diamater (NOTE ABOUT) and an inch and a bit more long.

One end has a lense, and a metal ring, Then the white plastic tube with the leads coming out the other end.

You drill a hole. Slip it in and slide a spring nut (Speed nut) over the leads and onto the tube.. Push it up to hold it, Wire the light to the switch so when the switch is on the LED is on (Hook the black lead to any handy ground)

These last a long, long time.

NOTE: there are many simular LED assemblies on the market. I get mine at an electronics parts store,, The kind of place Joe's TV might shop.

There are several on this EBAY page

OR you could look at this Store's page Click Here

Sounds like the switch is being severely overloaded by something down the line.
I have the same switches in my RV. They used one to switch all the over head lights and it went bad. By adding up all the current those lights use I figured out the switch was badly undersized - and this is from the factory! Plus, I don't think those switches are up to what they claim they're capable of.
I ended up replacing the bulbs with LED's after replacing the switch.