Loss of electricity
Just got home last night from a trip. Parked the rig everything was fine.Left the fridge running and water heater was on.Went out this morning and the wife took out the rear slide to get stuff out and...
Forum Discussion
The faint click you heard at the rear of the coach may be the battery disconnect solenoid/relay. If you follow the +ve cable from your battery, you should find the solenoid/relay (below are links to a couple types to know what you are looking for)
When the battery switch is on (green light) and it is working correctly, the large lugs on the sides of the relay should have 12+ volts each relative to chassis ground.
If neither of the side lugs have 12+ volts, look for a fuse between the battery and the solenoid that may have blown.
If there is 12+ volts at both of the side lugs, the solenoid is working correctly. Your problem is downstream of the solenoid. It may be a fuse or the convertor/charger or inverter/charger as the case may be.
If there is 12+ volts on just one of the side connectors, it is likely malfunctioning. The small terminals on the front of the solenoid receive power from the switch with the green light. If you have a continuous duty solenoid, one of the small terminals on the front of the solenoid should read 12+ volts. If it is a latching solenoid, the small terminals on the front of the solenoid will only read 12+ volts when the switch is pushed.
To bypass the solenoid relay, you can run a heavy gauge jumper wire between the two larger side lugs. I had enough room to clamp one end of a positive jumper cable to one side lug and the other end of the positive jumper cable to the other side lug. If the lights and refrigerator start working, the solenoid is likely the culprit...
A latching relay looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/INTELLITEC-0100055000-Battery-Disconnect-Relay/dp/B072N8NYN2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1508872311&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+disconnect+relay
A continuous duty relay looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24059-BP-Insulated-Continuous/dp/B0064MX7US/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1508872311&sr=8-4&keywords=battery+disconnect+relay
When the battery switch is on (green light) and it is working correctly, the large lugs on the sides of the relay should have 12+ volts each relative to chassis ground.
If neither of the side lugs have 12+ volts, look for a fuse between the battery and the solenoid that may have blown.
If there is 12+ volts at both of the side lugs, the solenoid is working correctly. Your problem is downstream of the solenoid. It may be a fuse or the convertor/charger or inverter/charger as the case may be.
If there is 12+ volts on just one of the side connectors, it is likely malfunctioning. The small terminals on the front of the solenoid receive power from the switch with the green light. If you have a continuous duty solenoid, one of the small terminals on the front of the solenoid should read 12+ volts. If it is a latching solenoid, the small terminals on the front of the solenoid will only read 12+ volts when the switch is pushed.
To bypass the solenoid relay, you can run a heavy gauge jumper wire between the two larger side lugs. I had enough room to clamp one end of a positive jumper cable to one side lug and the other end of the positive jumper cable to the other side lug. If the lights and refrigerator start working, the solenoid is likely the culprit...
A latching relay looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/INTELLITEC-0100055000-Battery-Disconnect-Relay/dp/B072N8NYN2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1508872311&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+disconnect+relay
A continuous duty relay looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24059-BP-Insulated-Continuous/dp/B0064MX7US/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1508872311&sr=8-4&keywords=battery+disconnect+relay
