LP problems, no furnace no water heater

OP HERE!! Great success!!
I picked up a new battery today and it measured 12.64
Volts my lousy old one was only Measuring 12.42v so I changed the and and
Actually pulled the cover of the breaker panel. Once I sat down with my volt meter I found a wire that was loose. Wait it's not Even connected. Once I connected it. The heat fired. The water heater fired and I'm getting a reaction from the fridge. The one I'm pointing to with my screw driver

Well that 15A Fuse Load wire was the one Identified as the REEFER/FURN. #4
Looks like the Water Heater is feed from that fuse also



Fuse #7 & #8 are 7.5A but label shows #6 & 7/8????

It would help you in future if you went thru those fuses and correctly ID them & relabel ALL 8 of them

Well done rookie, lol! ;)

This is a good example of how a meter can lead to a proper diagnosis. A meter should be in the toolbox of every RV owner, IMO. The problem is that folks that have never owned one are in fear of using one, the fear of the unknown. The reality is that learning the various functions of a meter is easy and it can lead to prompt diagnosis of failures in the two electrical systems of an RV. A meter is also useful to diagnose exterior light failures which are powered by the tow vehicle power.
There have been Forum member that have posted electrical problems and torn apart a whole furnace replacing parts as they go because they don't want to use a meter.

Glad to hear the fix was simple.

Now you can take new battery back to the store. 12.42 of the old one, while indicating that it's far from being fully charged, should still be enough to run DC devices. After you've learned how to take care of battery, you'll be ready for a new one.

westend wrote:
Well done rookie, lol! ;)

This is a good example of how a meter can lead to a proper diagnosis. A meter should be in the toolbox of every RV owner, IMO. The problem is that folks that have never owned one are in fear of using one, the fear of the unknown. The reality is that learning the various functions of a meter is easy and it can lead to prompt diagnosis of failures in the two electrical systems of an RV. A meter is also useful to diagnose exterior light failures which are powered by the tow vehicle power.
There have been Forum member that have posted electrical problems and torn apart a whole furnace replacing parts as they go because they don't want to use a meter.

Glad to hear the fix was simple.

Op here. I've never been afraid of a volt meter. I have to have it to Maintain my 5 Hondas ranging from 1966-2001, my ski nautique and my garden tractor. Once someone suggested DC problem I had to rule the battery out thus my $89 "waste" even thought I knew the old battery was fine. And then I said it's just a matter of tracing out the path. Once I had confirmed 12.63 volts coming in from the primary battery load carrying conductors I said, ok. I'm good to here now where does it start to break down. A second later the disconnected wire was obvious!! The seller didn't even know why that wire would have been removed as he has been trying to coach me along with you all. So thank you RV FORUM very much for pointing me in the right direction. I will not be returning the battery, the old camper battery will now go in my ski boat as the old battery I took out failed last year at time of winterization. I was happy to see a date sticker of sept 2003 on it. 12 years on the old battery. I think I got my money's worth out of that one!! Happy camping and back to moto' s and fining a proper tow rig!!

You can Google this and there are a bunch out there, but for future reference. That's why I hate to throw money at something until I know for sure what the problem is. Good job on finding the loose wire. Better at home then on the road.