Manual Charging

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Buy a pair of the 40 amp MW. and I'll work with you step by step to make a blow up resistant two stage converter. One runs on a timer, and is set to 14.8 volts the second MW is set to 13.6 volts and is the default maintainer.

This is so easy to do it's criminal. But no, the two chargers cannot "see" each other. So we use a 400 amp rated twin Shottky pyramid diode. This is hammer and chisel work no electronics. You do need to purchase an Intermatic spring wound timer. Another 6th grade level hookup.

This works great if your hotel load is usually less than 40 amps.

I'll PM you with answers as requested.

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Think you can run one positive lead from each MW to one of the 1/4" threaded holes atop each pyramid rectifier? Tah Dah! The MW are now separated. The negative leads from the MW of course are connected to the battery. The plate on the bottom of the shottky pair is the outlet for the diodes. It gets connected to wherever your Iota is currently connected to.

Maybe you want to buy one of the 15 volt models as Mega Watt 12 volt maxes out at 15.5

With a 15 volt model (13.5 to 18) you would always have the ability for one of the two to hit 16 for eq and it would be working in the low part of it's band when it's at 14.8

mena661 wrote:

KJINTF wrote:

Sorry to hear your Iota is dying

This one came with the rig. I have no idea what shape it was in when I got it. It started doing this from the get go. It still works, just not when it's 100+. I'll be keeping this one, thanks though.

BFL13 wrote:

If it is true they will limit the external knob 100 to 15.5v then you will still be using the VEC anyway.

Mine are a lot easier to get to 100% than yours. All they need is low to mid 15V. Not much time at that either. What I've noticed with the MW is that because it has more amps than my HF manual charger, it takes less time for EQ's and top offs. Pretty sure I'll be able to do it all with the Powermax. I had emailed Randy about the adjustable voltage PM and it was in the mid $200 range.

Here is the one I have that I did the mod to. No sense getting a fancy PM4 if you are going to do the mod I did on it. I have doubts about the specs they give the PM3 here, sounds more like a PM4 but anyway, doesn't matter for the mod application.

http://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/powermax-pm3-100-100-amp-converter-charger1.html

Buy a pair of the 40 amp MW. and I'll work with you step by step to make a blow up resistant two stage converter. One runs on a timer, and is set to 14.8 volts the second MW is set to 13.6 volts and is the default maintainer.

This is so easy to do it's criminal. But no, the two chargers cannot "see" each other. So we use a 400 amp rated twin Shottky pyramid diode. This is hammer and chisel work no electronics. You do need to purchase an Intermatic spring wound timer. Another 6th grade level hookup.

This works great if your hotel load is usually less than 40 amps.

I'll PM you with answers as requested.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Think you can run one positive lead from each MW to one of the 1/4" threaded holes atop each pyramid rectifier? Tah Dah! The MW are now separated. The negative leads from the MW of course are connected to the battery. The plate on the bottom of the shottky pair is the outlet for the diodes. It gets connected to wherever your Iota is currently connected to.

mena661 wrote:
Indeed KJ! And thanks guys for the help.

BFL13 wrote:

OTOH I never did get my old T-1275s equalized. Their cells are all over the place, but the batts are doing great. I just have a baseline for each cell which I keep score on. Oh well.

I just think that's so weird. Are you getting the full 150Ah or have you measured less Ah?

No the best capacity I got on the latest "10 hr" load test was 270 out of 300 but it is staying that good in service. Right now I am running only on the two T-1275s for a month with the four 6s disconnected for a well deserved break. :) I can't tell the difference daily with the four 6s "missing." Guess I have way too many batteries while on all this solar.

I will toss in this reference to the equalizing test with that 100 I also included in reply to mex in another thread
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26557259.cfm

Indeed KJ! And thanks guys for the help.

BFL13 wrote:

OTOH I never did get my old T-1275s equalized. Their cells are all over the place, but the batts are doing great. I just have a baseline for each cell which I keep score on. Oh well.

I just think that's so weird. Are you getting the full 150Ah or have you measured less Ah?

When the DW is not happy you are NOT Happy
Best to keep her happy
Domestic tranquility is always a good thing

BTW, DW won't let me fix this with a half-assed solution. She sees my present MW as a temporary one, not permanent. She expects for it to be replaced with another converter. LOL! I've told her too much.

KJINTF wrote:

Sorry to hear your Iota is dying

This one came with the rig. I have no idea what shape it was in when I got it. It started doing this from the get go. It still works, just not when it's 100+. I'll be keeping this one, thanks though.

BFL13 wrote:

If it is true they will limit the external knob 100 to 15.5v then you will still be using the VEC anyway.

Mine are a lot easier to get to 100% than yours. All they need is low to mid 15V. Not much time at that either. What I've noticed with the MW is that because it has more amps than my HF manual charger, it takes less time for EQ's and top offs. Pretty sure I'll be able to do it all with the Powermax. I had emailed Randy about the adjustable voltage PM and it was in the mid $200 range.

mena661 wrote:
Side note, I just noticed that 80A only goes to 14V. Might have to get that adjustable Powermax instead. So, I can just let Vabs run till 0 amps with no shot of 15+V at the end to get it topped off?

I use the mod 100 at fixed 14.8 but after that I use the VEC to do any topping off/equalizing.

I imagine that external pot 100 will cost twice what the old PM3-100s cost now, but you have to take the top off the old one and twiddle the tiny blue pot with a tiny screwdriver and not blow anything up. Then put the top back on and leave it be. (or every time you twiddle it you have another chance to break that tiny thing)

If it is true they will limit the external knob 100 to 15.5v then you will still be using the VEC anyway. I tried my external 100 set at 15.5 (highest mine will go) and it acted the same as the VEC pretty much, with amps about 4 starting off and then tapering. So about 4 is the natural acceptance rate for a pair of 6s at 15.5 I guess.

I gather Mex wants one that you can set your 5% worth of amps on it and ease the voltage on up to keep the amps the same as the equalize runs on. Very hands on.

These things I /we have can only do a constant voltage and amps will taper. Still, I have no problem getting the SG to baseline doing that with my 6s and I am nowhere near 5% amps at first and they taper.

OTOH I never did get my old T-1275s equalized. Their cells are all over the place, but the batts are doing great. I just have a baseline for each cell which I keep score on. Oh well.

Mena

Sorry to hear your Iota is dying
Looks as if your luck with converters is not as good as it could be ....
Maybe that southern Ca heat is taking it's toll on the converters

The old Paramode continues to keep my boat's trolling batteries charged up as well as two tractor batteries

Happy to pay you a bit for the Iota in as is condition