Mean Well RSP-500-15 Switching Power Supply
IT just arrived. Initial impressions: Much heavier than the cheapowatt 1/2" wider, 1/2 inch longer and almost 1/2 inch less High than cheapowatt. The casing is about 50 to 75% thicker aluminum t...
Forum Discussion
Thanks. I'm thinking I am just going to hardwire the GTpower meter on the Output, and forgo the shunted amp/voltmeter. I'm hoping my new solder sucker allows me to separate the sandwiched circuit boards and get some 8awg onto them, and replace that "12 awg" aluminum wire, which seems more like 14awg and gets very warm passing 20+ amps.
I will make something to remove all wire stresses from circuit board, as it will likely be mounted on a cabinet door. Probably incorporate the 10 turn pot, the GTpower Meter and the wire strain relief onto this.
The Lid of the case is Steel. Much thinner, magnetic.
There are more transistors (8) pulled tight to the casing, though they are physically smaller. There is no thicker aluminum block between casing and transistors like the cheapowatt. 2 areas where these transistors are pulled tight to the casing, are recessed when looking from the exterior.
Some transistors have a flexible gray casing over them. There is also rather large finned aluminum a heatsink in the middle of the circuit board with more transistors (3) on it. On this heatsink, and on another on side of the case, are temperature sensors.
Here is the empty cheapowatt case next to the Mean Well
There is a lot more glue securing the components than the cheapowatt.
There is thermal grease between transistors and thermal pads, like the cheapowatt, but less generous a dollop.
There is bluish green thread locker on the screws which go through the case and pull the transistors tight to it. The threaded Aluminum block on the interior, which pulls the transistors tight to the case, is thicker and wider than on the cheapowatt I presume to spread the clamping load wider, and also act like another heatsink.
There are 8 threaded holes on the case exterior, 4 pairs of 2, for mounting the unit. There are also 4 threaded holds on the bottom too. I'll post the size and thread count after I goto ACE hardware and peruse their fastener section.
Function: When the voltage pot is slowly turned down to under 13.8v or so, faster than the battery voltage drops, there is a click, and the unit shuts down until battery voltage drops below the trim pot setpoint. 13.34v is the minimum it will go.
The voltage trim pot is silky smooth in comparison to the cheapowatt. The swing range is the same, about 220 degrees, but it is pretty easy to increase or decrease 0.01v with the screwdriver. Am not sure the 10 turn pot is really needed as it was on the cheapowatt.
I tested it on my screwy 31 upto 16 volts. Can blow right past it easily, if desired. I gave it a few seconds of 16.5v and 18 amps.
I only had my AGM 12AH from full and I hooked it upto that and turned up the trim pot. Went right to 34 amps and levelled off. No noises, even took 15 seconds before fan turned on. Battery voltage followed upto 15 volts quickly too, so I did not leave it on at that rate.
My only complaint is the fan is just really loud when it kicks on. Just by touch when I'd feel the case getting warm, the fan would kick on, and then I could feel it cool back down after 30 seconds.
I am thinking a larger slower fan running continuously, not controlled by the circuit board, could keep the unit cool enough that the loud stock fan does not kick on. I theorize the heat cycling caused by the fan cycling on and off, would induce more stress on the components.
I have not been able to find the exact fan, yet to find the specs. Wider NMB fans have specs from 13 to 20CFM, but this one is only 20MM, not 25 or 34.
If I were to get a nice Diode I could drop minimum voltage to 13.06 or less, and also just hardwire a larger fan to the output, and it would just come on when I had 120vac available, Or I could just put a switch on it, or just unplug the powerpole connector.
Wonder how many amps it will make when battery voltage is in the low 12's. 41.4666 amps?
Am cycling the AGM now for a test, but it is still over 12.5 volts.
Any Picture requests of certain components?
I will make something to remove all wire stresses from circuit board, as it will likely be mounted on a cabinet door. Probably incorporate the 10 turn pot, the GTpower Meter and the wire strain relief onto this.
The Lid of the case is Steel. Much thinner, magnetic.
There are more transistors (8) pulled tight to the casing, though they are physically smaller. There is no thicker aluminum block between casing and transistors like the cheapowatt. 2 areas where these transistors are pulled tight to the casing, are recessed when looking from the exterior.
Some transistors have a flexible gray casing over them. There is also rather large finned aluminum a heatsink in the middle of the circuit board with more transistors (3) on it. On this heatsink, and on another on side of the case, are temperature sensors.
Here is the empty cheapowatt case next to the Mean Well
There is a lot more glue securing the components than the cheapowatt.
There is thermal grease between transistors and thermal pads, like the cheapowatt, but less generous a dollop.
There is bluish green thread locker on the screws which go through the case and pull the transistors tight to it. The threaded Aluminum block on the interior, which pulls the transistors tight to the case, is thicker and wider than on the cheapowatt I presume to spread the clamping load wider, and also act like another heatsink.
There are 8 threaded holes on the case exterior, 4 pairs of 2, for mounting the unit. There are also 4 threaded holds on the bottom too. I'll post the size and thread count after I goto ACE hardware and peruse their fastener section.
Function: When the voltage pot is slowly turned down to under 13.8v or so, faster than the battery voltage drops, there is a click, and the unit shuts down until battery voltage drops below the trim pot setpoint. 13.34v is the minimum it will go.
The voltage trim pot is silky smooth in comparison to the cheapowatt. The swing range is the same, about 220 degrees, but it is pretty easy to increase or decrease 0.01v with the screwdriver. Am not sure the 10 turn pot is really needed as it was on the cheapowatt.
I tested it on my screwy 31 upto 16 volts. Can blow right past it easily, if desired. I gave it a few seconds of 16.5v and 18 amps.
I only had my AGM 12AH from full and I hooked it upto that and turned up the trim pot. Went right to 34 amps and levelled off. No noises, even took 15 seconds before fan turned on. Battery voltage followed upto 15 volts quickly too, so I did not leave it on at that rate.
My only complaint is the fan is just really loud when it kicks on. Just by touch when I'd feel the case getting warm, the fan would kick on, and then I could feel it cool back down after 30 seconds.
I am thinking a larger slower fan running continuously, not controlled by the circuit board, could keep the unit cool enough that the loud stock fan does not kick on. I theorize the heat cycling caused by the fan cycling on and off, would induce more stress on the components.
I have not been able to find the exact fan, yet to find the specs. Wider NMB fans have specs from 13 to 20CFM, but this one is only 20MM, not 25 or 34.
If I were to get a nice Diode I could drop minimum voltage to 13.06 or less, and also just hardwire a larger fan to the output, and it would just come on when I had 120vac available, Or I could just put a switch on it, or just unplug the powerpole connector.
Wonder how many amps it will make when battery voltage is in the low 12's. 41.4666 amps?
Am cycling the AGM now for a test, but it is still over 12.5 volts.
Any Picture requests of certain components?
