Mean Well RSP-500-15 Switching Power Supply
IT just arrived. Initial impressions: Much heavier than the cheapowatt 1/2" wider, 1/2 inch longer and almost 1/2 inch less High than cheapowatt. The casing is about 50 to 75% thicker aluminum t...
Forum Discussion
The top unit is 10 times smaller than the bottom unit. It is meant to be clamped with thermal grease to the largest heat sink. There are two rectifiers in it. A single output lead. Devices must be over-rated for durability. The top device is insulated, the only part that has power are the three leads. The case and metal tab are insulated.
The bottom device has two 300 amp rectifiers. It's claim to fame is absolute minimum Vf, and may indeed drop so little voltage that it's purpose for your needs are very limited. I am looking for as little as .25 volt drop at 30 amperes. My purpose is to isolate the power supplies from one another. The copper strap across the bottom is hot. the cathode common. Another harder to deal with characteristic.
The top device may be your best bet because you are looking for a set amount of Vf.
Again, I am a nightmare-grade-strict believer in device derate for durability. A TO247 device of this caliber will serve you well. I highly recommend connecting a 100uf 100 volt cap across the device output because Shottky rectifiers are more sensitive to transients and surges than silicon rectifiers.
Your power supply may or may not employ an avalanche rectifier across it's output terminals. They are connected in reverse bias ie cathode to positive, anode to negative. I like clamping values in the 20-30 volt range. Such a device obliterates transients.
The TO247 device is a piece of cake to understand, and connect. A spootch of Arctic Silver adhesive makes mounting to your finned heat sink effortless. i use PARALLEL CONNECTORS from DELCITY.NET to connect larger gauge wire to the TO247 leads. Fast soldering is essential. A 100 watt gun and minimum time. Tweezers recommended as a fast cooldown heat sink.
From another night owl. 0315 hours 84F with 67% humidity.
Another storm on the way.
The bottom device has two 300 amp rectifiers. It's claim to fame is absolute minimum Vf, and may indeed drop so little voltage that it's purpose for your needs are very limited. I am looking for as little as .25 volt drop at 30 amperes. My purpose is to isolate the power supplies from one another. The copper strap across the bottom is hot. the cathode common. Another harder to deal with characteristic.
The top device may be your best bet because you are looking for a set amount of Vf.
Again, I am a nightmare-grade-strict believer in device derate for durability. A TO247 device of this caliber will serve you well. I highly recommend connecting a 100uf 100 volt cap across the device output because Shottky rectifiers are more sensitive to transients and surges than silicon rectifiers.
Your power supply may or may not employ an avalanche rectifier across it's output terminals. They are connected in reverse bias ie cathode to positive, anode to negative. I like clamping values in the 20-30 volt range. Such a device obliterates transients.
The TO247 device is a piece of cake to understand, and connect. A spootch of Arctic Silver adhesive makes mounting to your finned heat sink effortless. i use PARALLEL CONNECTORS from DELCITY.NET to connect larger gauge wire to the TO247 leads. Fast soldering is essential. A 100 watt gun and minimum time. Tweezers recommended as a fast cooldown heat sink.
From another night owl. 0315 hours 84F with 67% humidity.
Another storm on the way.
