Mean Well RSP-500-15 Switching Power Supply
IT just arrived. Initial impressions: Much heavier than the cheapowatt 1/2" wider, 1/2 inch longer and almost 1/2 inch less High than cheapowatt. The casing is about 50 to 75% thicker aluminum t...
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Success.
I was not able to separate the circuit boards, but I was able to pry them far enough apart to Shoehorn the tinned 8AWG marine wire in there.
Here is the 12awg aluminum wire:
I took an older soldering tip, and used a round file of the same circumference as the 8awg and made a concave across the tip to hug the wire, and the 12awg came off quickly and easily.
I flattened the insulation with a razor so I could get the wire to fit in between the 2 circuit boards when stuffed back in the case.
I could have done a little bit more.
I also had to remove two screw hold downs and file out the casing to fit the 8awg. So I needed zip ties to hold it completely shut.
The tinned marine wire really seems to suck up a lot of solder.
Ever since I've owned this GT power Meter, The source and load sides were always backwards,99 times out of a hundred, I would have to read it upside down.
Proof that I did not ruin it:
I shoved the GTpower back into the case, but this is by no means final. It will be mounted differently at some point without the case with more airflow running across the bottom.
It is however good enough for now while I plan The pot, and perhaps a Diode.
The GT power meter NOW reads, at 17 amps, the same voltage as measured directly on the output terminals with my DMM. My previous test, with the 12 awg , at 17.7 amps, the terminal voltage was 14.71, the GTpower read 14.58.
So Improvement is confirmed. I'll be getting some 8awg on the other side of the powerpole to battery switch, replacing some Home depot 10awg wire. Ive got a bunch of powerpoles connectors, some bypassing the shunt all with 10 awg. These will all be upgraded to 8awg.
It was fun getting the 8awg into the 45 amp power poles too. I used the 10 gauge wire stripper to remove extra stranding so that it would fit in the contact crimp. I shaved a square taper into the insulation with a razor, and lots of force was required to get it to 'click'. I should probably get a larger connector.
I was not able to separate the circuit boards, but I was able to pry them far enough apart to Shoehorn the tinned 8AWG marine wire in there.
Here is the 12awg aluminum wire:
I took an older soldering tip, and used a round file of the same circumference as the 8awg and made a concave across the tip to hug the wire, and the 12awg came off quickly and easily.
I flattened the insulation with a razor so I could get the wire to fit in between the 2 circuit boards when stuffed back in the case.
I could have done a little bit more.
I also had to remove two screw hold downs and file out the casing to fit the 8awg. So I needed zip ties to hold it completely shut.
The tinned marine wire really seems to suck up a lot of solder.
Ever since I've owned this GT power Meter, The source and load sides were always backwards,99 times out of a hundred, I would have to read it upside down.
Proof that I did not ruin it:
I shoved the GTpower back into the case, but this is by no means final. It will be mounted differently at some point without the case with more airflow running across the bottom.
It is however good enough for now while I plan The pot, and perhaps a Diode.
The GT power meter NOW reads, at 17 amps, the same voltage as measured directly on the output terminals with my DMM. My previous test, with the 12 awg , at 17.7 amps, the terminal voltage was 14.71, the GTpower read 14.58.
So Improvement is confirmed. I'll be getting some 8awg on the other side of the powerpole to battery switch, replacing some Home depot 10awg wire. Ive got a bunch of powerpoles connectors, some bypassing the shunt all with 10 awg. These will all be upgraded to 8awg.
It was fun getting the 8awg into the 45 amp power poles too. I used the 10 gauge wire stripper to remove extra stranding so that it would fit in the contact crimp. I shaved a square taper into the insulation with a razor, and lots of force was required to get it to 'click'. I should probably get a larger connector.
