Mean Well RSP-500-15 Switching Power Supply
IT just arrived. Initial impressions: Much heavier than the cheapowatt 1/2" wider, 1/2 inch longer and almost 1/2 inch less High than cheapowatt. The casing is about 50 to 75% thicker aluminum t...
Forum Discussion
Tonight, I calibrated my cheapo Centech voltmeter to read the same as my better Clamp on DMM which corresponds exactly with my GTpower when under no load.
I plugged the Centech into the unused 45A powerpole for easier MW output terminal voltage readings.
I used nashua Flexfix tape to hold DMM thermo sensor to hotspot on MW case exterior. Perhaps sensor not in exact same position. Previously used white gaffer's tape. unscientific variables to skew data from last test.
I set MW voltage to 15.00v, plugged it into screwy 31, which was 44A/h from full according to IPN pro remote.
40 amps max. More data corroborating MW voltage regulation/ reduction to reduce overload.
Despite 80mm Noctua fan exhausting, the 40MM fan kicked on, and ran continuously until GTPAmps had tapered to the 25.3amp mark at 1:01 into test.
40MM fan turned on at 103.5F, 4 minutes into test, temp maxed out at 113.6F at 15 minute mark. I rested 60mm Noctua against opening at 15 minutes. I added another fan blowing in that general direction from a foot away at the same time. Temps reduced 1.5F in 2 minutes.
40 amps constant until the 43 minute mark when tapering began.
At 1:10 into test, battery voltage touched 14.8v, and I lowered voltage pot slightly so battery read 14.7v. MWTv lowered to 14.90v, GTpV read 14.84v.
Amps into battery instantly tapered from 20.13 to 14.11amps at that 0.1v reduction in MWtv setting.
End of test at 2 hours. Remove AC power from MW.
Battery was accepting 3.7 amps at 14.7v. IPN claiming 2ah from full. DMM saying MW was 77.5F.
GTpower meter claimed:
Watt peak: 592.9
Amp peak: 40.05
Watt hours 830.7
Voltage minimum: 12.92v
AH counted: 57.079
Observations: When 40MM fan kicked on, the air flow from the 80MM Noctua fan was reduced by 75% easily. The high speed 40Mm fan was able to scavenge a majority of the airflow from the other case openings. It was blowing a column of dense warm air, the Noctua's flow was weak and felt cool.
I rested 60Mm fan against opening my terminals at the 113f mark, and aimed another fan over the unit from a foot away. Temps then dropped nearly 2 degrees and held there until 43 minute mark when amps began to taper.
I'd had two finned heatsinks merely placed on the upper side casing. They did get warm despite the minimal surface area in direct contact.
When adjusting the trim pot, pushing on the screwdriver reduces voltage by a tenth but rebounds when pressure removed. Adjusting it downward accurately 0.1v, required No downward pressure. no push and twist, just catch edge, and twist.
Gonna have to lift that Circuit board out to get that 10 turn pot wired in. the MW trim pot is 2x as easy to adjust as the cheapowatt, but it still requires too fine a touch.
I wish I had busted out the hydrometer at the end of 2 hours. My 14.9Absv and 15.3v finishing regimen on solar for this battery, would likely be abusive at 3x+ the maximum solar amperage, and nearly 3x the 'recommended' bulk rate for this battery
This morning I put a Max voltage hold at 13.6v, as it was already at 15.3v at 9:30am and taking only 2.1 amps to hold that voltage.
So basically tonight The screwy31 was getting 36+ amps for 43 minutes until battery voltage hit 14.7999, at which point I reduced MW terminal voltage from 15.00 to 14.90. and constant voltage was then held until the end of test at 2 hours as amps tapered down to 3.7a at 2 hours.
The data is narrowing down the sweetspot. At 45 AH from full, set MW to 14.9v, attach to battery, crank timer to 2:15. I bet it is 95%+ at that 2:15 mark, perhaps higher, but need the Hydrometer to verify, but the amps accepted at that voltage, tell me I am close.
Now imagine if I were shooting for 15ABSV. or Just said Eff it and set it to 16V and cranked the timer for 3 hours. Hmm then there is that maximum 19.23v the MW allows.
What to do with that?
I plugged the Centech into the unused 45A powerpole for easier MW output terminal voltage readings.
I used nashua Flexfix tape to hold DMM thermo sensor to hotspot on MW case exterior. Perhaps sensor not in exact same position. Previously used white gaffer's tape. unscientific variables to skew data from last test.
I set MW voltage to 15.00v, plugged it into screwy 31, which was 44A/h from full according to IPN pro remote.
40 amps max. More data corroborating MW voltage regulation/ reduction to reduce overload.
Despite 80mm Noctua fan exhausting, the 40MM fan kicked on, and ran continuously until GTPAmps had tapered to the 25.3amp mark at 1:01 into test.
40MM fan turned on at 103.5F, 4 minutes into test, temp maxed out at 113.6F at 15 minute mark. I rested 60mm Noctua against opening at 15 minutes. I added another fan blowing in that general direction from a foot away at the same time. Temps reduced 1.5F in 2 minutes.
40 amps constant until the 43 minute mark when tapering began.
At 1:10 into test, battery voltage touched 14.8v, and I lowered voltage pot slightly so battery read 14.7v. MWTv lowered to 14.90v, GTpV read 14.84v.
Amps into battery instantly tapered from 20.13 to 14.11amps at that 0.1v reduction in MWtv setting.
End of test at 2 hours. Remove AC power from MW.
Battery was accepting 3.7 amps at 14.7v. IPN claiming 2ah from full. DMM saying MW was 77.5F.
GTpower meter claimed:
Watt peak: 592.9
Amp peak: 40.05
Watt hours 830.7
Voltage minimum: 12.92v
AH counted: 57.079
Observations: When 40MM fan kicked on, the air flow from the 80MM Noctua fan was reduced by 75% easily. The high speed 40Mm fan was able to scavenge a majority of the airflow from the other case openings. It was blowing a column of dense warm air, the Noctua's flow was weak and felt cool.
I rested 60Mm fan against opening my terminals at the 113f mark, and aimed another fan over the unit from a foot away. Temps then dropped nearly 2 degrees and held there until 43 minute mark when amps began to taper.
I'd had two finned heatsinks merely placed on the upper side casing. They did get warm despite the minimal surface area in direct contact.
When adjusting the trim pot, pushing on the screwdriver reduces voltage by a tenth but rebounds when pressure removed. Adjusting it downward accurately 0.1v, required No downward pressure. no push and twist, just catch edge, and twist.
Gonna have to lift that Circuit board out to get that 10 turn pot wired in. the MW trim pot is 2x as easy to adjust as the cheapowatt, but it still requires too fine a touch.
I wish I had busted out the hydrometer at the end of 2 hours. My 14.9Absv and 15.3v finishing regimen on solar for this battery, would likely be abusive at 3x+ the maximum solar amperage, and nearly 3x the 'recommended' bulk rate for this battery
This morning I put a Max voltage hold at 13.6v, as it was already at 15.3v at 9:30am and taking only 2.1 amps to hold that voltage.
So basically tonight The screwy31 was getting 36+ amps for 43 minutes until battery voltage hit 14.7999, at which point I reduced MW terminal voltage from 15.00 to 14.90. and constant voltage was then held until the end of test at 2 hours as amps tapered down to 3.7a at 2 hours.
The data is narrowing down the sweetspot. At 45 AH from full, set MW to 14.9v, attach to battery, crank timer to 2:15. I bet it is 95%+ at that 2:15 mark, perhaps higher, but need the Hydrometer to verify, but the amps accepted at that voltage, tell me I am close.
Now imagine if I were shooting for 15ABSV. or Just said Eff it and set it to 16V and cranked the timer for 3 hours. Hmm then there is that maximum 19.23v the MW allows.
What to do with that?
