Mean Well RSP-500-15 Switching Power Supply
IT just arrived. Initial impressions: Much heavier than the cheapowatt 1/2" wider, 1/2 inch longer and almost 1/2 inch less High than cheapowatt. The casing is about 50 to 75% thicker aluminum t...
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The parakeet is worth no more effort than it takes to fill my mouth with water, and aim it at the dang thing when it goes into a screeching fit. It is not worth the filtered water I am spitting at it in utter contempt.
It is slowly learning annoyance is a 2 way streak. The bird owner gets a bit miffed when I clamp up a tarp around the cage, so anything more than that is off limits, as much as I'd like to feed it to my screaming banshee blender quality 252 cfm fan. Or, set up a strobe light water cannon combo every time it makes a peep. Believe me, I've dreamed of a thousand different ways to destroy this parakeet.
On the opposite end of the spectrum are Noctua's fans. No parakeet blender ability, but very quiet and efficient.
It is, in this photo, plugged into the older 10awg that goes to the 'load' switch. I plugged it into DC power just to spin the fans and alight the GTpower meter for the photo. The 8 awg was attached to my I4 Li-ion charger as it charges my 18650's.
The new 8awg wire for the MW goes to the solar switch's( closest to power strip) common Stud, so i can direct it to either battery.
Unseen is a third blue seas switch that moves ignition/ stock vehicle wiring to either battery. When not in actual use, the MeanWell's AC and DC cables are not connected and not flexing with the cabinet door movement.
In theory, just using these 3 switches, I could use one battery, to top charge the other via the MeanWell if I could keep it under the 400 watt rating of my Wagan 400w PSW inverter.
When the cabinet door is closed, I really have to concentrate to hear the Noctua's running, and as said, it is unlikely I'll close the cabinet door in 40 amp bulk charging mode, but if I do, there is wire stress relief on the MW, and the cabinet itself has an exhaust fan up top.
That big beautiful aluminum finned heatsink is just resting on top right now unattached, basically over the internal heatsink whose thermal grease application did not impress Mex. There are actually 2 screws pulling this interior heatsink to the casing. Then a Wide threaded flat bar rests against the transistors and 2 screws pull the flatbar and transistors tight to heatsink and case. I believe with the surface area involved and the 2 small screws and their minimal torque used to initially pull this heatsink tight to casing, were not adequate to squeeze out all the grease to the edges. No doubt more love could have been used on installation.
I did file the inside of the case flat as the screw holes were raised. Anyway there has got to be more heatsink/casing contact in this area than before, but could still be improved upon.
I had to bend these transistors away a bit to remove circuit board and was reluctant to really apply much pressure to them or fatigue them by cleaning off all the old grease. The heatsink was still stuck to the thermal pad and transistors, and I was unwilling to pull it off. The little tube of arctic silver thermal grease is quite small, much smaller than expected, and expensive, and I was worried I'd not have enough to close the case back up properly if I removed the original grease and tried to replace it with AS.
While the cheapowatt's transistors had the 3 legs in line, the MW has the middle leg offset a few mm, and one of the legs of each transistor has a little barrel( ferrite ring?) on the left leg, so bending these is not as easy as the inline transistor legs. Perhaps I am being over cautious with CB components, but it is still within the great unknown realm to me and is treated as very fragile.
I did properly apply Arctic Silver on the casing side, and it did squeeze out the sides when I tightened the two screws, but I should have busted out a small C clamp to squeeze it tight then installed the screws, not relying on the screws to purge the excess grease.
Anyway, even maxed out, the MW runs a lot cooler than the honorable Cheapowatt did when trying to give itself an unregulated fiery heart attack.
It is slowly learning annoyance is a 2 way streak. The bird owner gets a bit miffed when I clamp up a tarp around the cage, so anything more than that is off limits, as much as I'd like to feed it to my screaming banshee blender quality 252 cfm fan. Or, set up a strobe light water cannon combo every time it makes a peep. Believe me, I've dreamed of a thousand different ways to destroy this parakeet.
On the opposite end of the spectrum are Noctua's fans. No parakeet blender ability, but very quiet and efficient.
It is, in this photo, plugged into the older 10awg that goes to the 'load' switch. I plugged it into DC power just to spin the fans and alight the GTpower meter for the photo. The 8 awg was attached to my I4 Li-ion charger as it charges my 18650's.
The new 8awg wire for the MW goes to the solar switch's( closest to power strip) common Stud, so i can direct it to either battery.
Unseen is a third blue seas switch that moves ignition/ stock vehicle wiring to either battery. When not in actual use, the MeanWell's AC and DC cables are not connected and not flexing with the cabinet door movement.
In theory, just using these 3 switches, I could use one battery, to top charge the other via the MeanWell if I could keep it under the 400 watt rating of my Wagan 400w PSW inverter.
When the cabinet door is closed, I really have to concentrate to hear the Noctua's running, and as said, it is unlikely I'll close the cabinet door in 40 amp bulk charging mode, but if I do, there is wire stress relief on the MW, and the cabinet itself has an exhaust fan up top.
That big beautiful aluminum finned heatsink is just resting on top right now unattached, basically over the internal heatsink whose thermal grease application did not impress Mex. There are actually 2 screws pulling this interior heatsink to the casing. Then a Wide threaded flat bar rests against the transistors and 2 screws pull the flatbar and transistors tight to heatsink and case. I believe with the surface area involved and the 2 small screws and their minimal torque used to initially pull this heatsink tight to casing, were not adequate to squeeze out all the grease to the edges. No doubt more love could have been used on installation.
I did file the inside of the case flat as the screw holes were raised. Anyway there has got to be more heatsink/casing contact in this area than before, but could still be improved upon.
I had to bend these transistors away a bit to remove circuit board and was reluctant to really apply much pressure to them or fatigue them by cleaning off all the old grease. The heatsink was still stuck to the thermal pad and transistors, and I was unwilling to pull it off. The little tube of arctic silver thermal grease is quite small, much smaller than expected, and expensive, and I was worried I'd not have enough to close the case back up properly if I removed the original grease and tried to replace it with AS.
While the cheapowatt's transistors had the 3 legs in line, the MW has the middle leg offset a few mm, and one of the legs of each transistor has a little barrel( ferrite ring?) on the left leg, so bending these is not as easy as the inline transistor legs. Perhaps I am being over cautious with CB components, but it is still within the great unknown realm to me and is treated as very fragile.
I did properly apply Arctic Silver on the casing side, and it did squeeze out the sides when I tightened the two screws, but I should have busted out a small C clamp to squeeze it tight then installed the screws, not relying on the screws to purge the excess grease.
Anyway, even maxed out, the MW runs a lot cooler than the honorable Cheapowatt did when trying to give itself an unregulated fiery heart attack.
