My PD point is not getting made here.
Never mind the pros/cons of letting any "automatic" charger do the right job in it's automatic mode when left alone all the time.
As I was probing up above ... doesn't the PD allow you to force it to hold boost as long as you want? Hence for "normal" RV wet cell battery banks (huge 2V battery clusters are not normal RV battery setups -> normally more of a full house bank for an off the grid stick house) why can't you just force a PD to stay in it's boost mode for as long as you want, say 6 hours ... then release it via the pendant to do it's good or bad "automatic stuff" of bulk and float from then on?
That's why I would have liked one of the defunct Parallax T series. Whenever fired up with 120V AC, they'd sit at a 14.XX volt boost voltage for an automatic timed four hours then drop to ~13.8 volts for infinity hours afterwards. However, they'd start this cycle all over again whenever they were powered down and then powered back up. So ... for RV use on batteries that preferred a 13.5-13.8 volt float range (like mine), whenever one fired up a genny for charging the T unit would then jump to 14.XX volts and hold it for four hours before dropping back down to ~13.8 volts for as long as you left it's input power un-interrupted. This would, IMHO, be a real sweet setup for batteries designed for this float range so as to not have to use manual intervention but still get a guaranteed forced 4 hours of boost with every genny charging period start-up during drycamping.
(Of course few folks have RV batteries that like to be floated at, and can also be fully charged between camping trips without vapor boil-off damage at, 13.5-13.8 volts.)
The 800 pound lead gorilla in the room is that whenever us hit and run RV'ers travel between camping spots our inadequately-SOC-restored-RV-batteries-because-of-automatic-chargers can indeed get a full charge from an alternator with large cabling between it and the RV batteries.