Meanwell SE-200-15

Getting old. I blew it...

That's the brick and that's how much I paid for them. The brick needs an AC power cord, which MPJA also sells. My muddled mind retained the cost of the brick and the power cord combined.

These are heavyweight and super good quality bricks. Don't sweat the 4 pin connector. Cut it off and use the sole 2 wires in the cord as I described in a post above.

NinerBikes wrote:




I see IBM/lenova bricks for $9.95 there. The $4 one remains elusive. That was with typing in "16 volt power supply" in the search function on their website.

Try this (I think) On sale for $2.95
Click here



MFG: SYN ELECTRONICS
P/N: SYS2011-6016
Input: 100-240 VAC 50-60Hz
Output: 16VDC @ 3.75A
Specifications/Features: Switching desktop supply with overvoltage & current limit protection Non-polarized 2 wire IEC Type 2-C8 input connector. 6ft output cord with ferrite filter & unknown 4 pin mini connector. UL/canada/usa/TUV/CE listed. Power Cord not included. ORDER CORD: Stock # 31448 CB
L: 4" W: 2-1/2" H: 1-1/4" WT: .66

Regarding the original question (bigger knob)...

On my recently acquired MegaWatt 400, I didn't feel like pulling the whole thing apart to replace the pot. So I just paralleled the new 10 turn with the original and set the original to as low (resistance) as it would go (Highest voltage). To do this I just soldered zip wire to the exposed legs of the pot on top of the board, and ran it to the new pot, stuck to the top of the PS with mounting tape.

On these supplies, lower resistance corresponds to higher voltage - noted by Landyacht & confirmed on mine. Parallelling the pots allowed me to shift the resistance down just a smidge, since the original pot had a range of ~1-980 ohm or so. Now I have <1 to ?something just under 980?. The voltage available was ~9.5 -15.5V, now it's about 10-15.8 . Numbers are approximate, I did this a month or so ago.

Like the 12-volt 7=amp bricks I purchased for four ninety five somewhere else. I be the ultimate cheapskate.

You might want to give them a call. They might have a few left.

Twenty-seven 12 and 16 volt bricks were delivered to me a month ago. Many of the sixteen volt bricks are destined to be used with DC boosters and high power 36-volt LED chips. The 16 volt bricks are UL and CSA approved. I managed to get 5.22 amps and two hours later the brick was no warmer than what a laptop brick gets. NOTE: The bricks use a center conductor of around 18-gauge copper, and a sheath ((shield)) of tinned copper strands that need to be twisted then soldered. Don't snip off the shield when connecting!

Now! Back to looting - I mean bargain shopping!

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
How much I WISH for a hands-off battery maintenance charger. Couple that to an automatic watering system and nasty battery maintenance would be a snap.

I also wish for the King of Nigeria to deposit forty million dollars in my bank account, my bad spinal disc to heal itself, atrial fibrillation to not require handfuls of medication, and...

BFL, Give your VEC a smack - I mean snack...
The more rational a "smart charger" is, the less manual manhandling your batteries will require. Danged batteries are hyper-sensitive. Some folks have a mistaken impression if you don't kiss their ---, they will live long and prosper. Like children and a plug n play approach. No monitoring and maintenance buys a whole bunch of problems. I simply do not have enough money to be lazy with battery maintenance.

I can only wonder how many forum contributors have adopted my recommended "Weak-Sister Cell" hydrometer protocol?

Marlin P. Jones, has/had 3.75 ampere 16.0 volt power bricks for four dollars. The amperage is close enough for a hundred amp hours worth of battery, and there is nothing in the world stopping a person from paying 32 dollars and get enough bricks to Christmas Tree Light string a bank of eight batteries. Add a common feed timer and it don't get any cheaper or easier than that. Or maybe a four hundred dollar adjustable power supply would be preferable for folks with comfortable means.

Or best yet "I have people who do that for me"

Linkyhttp://www.mpja.com

I see IBM/lenova bricks for $9.95 there. The $4 one remains elusive. That was with typing in "16 volt power supply" in the search function on their website.

How much I WISH for a hands-off battery maintenance charger. Couple that to an automatic watering system and nasty battery maintenance would be a snap.

I also wish for the King of Nigeria to deposit forty million dollars in my bank account, my bad spinal disc to heal itself, atrial fibrillation to not require handfuls of medication, and...

BFL, Give your VEC a smack - I mean snack...
The more rational a "smart charger" is, the less manual manhandling your batteries will require. Danged batteries are hyper-sensitive. Some folks have a mistaken impression if you don't kiss their ---, they will live long and prosper. Like children and a plug n play approach. No monitoring and maintenance buys a whole bunch of problems. I simply do not have enough money to be lazy with battery maintenance.

I can only wonder how many forum contributors have adopted my recommended "Weak-Sister Cell" hydrometer protocol?

Marlin P. Jones, has/had 3.75 ampere 16.0 volt power bricks for four dollars. The amperage is close enough for a hundred amp hours worth of battery, and there is nothing in the world stopping a person from paying 32 dollars and get enough bricks to Christmas Tree Light string a bank of eight batteries. Add a common feed timer and it don't get any cheaper or easier than that. Or maybe a four hundred dollar adjustable power supply would be preferable for folks with comfortable means.

Or best yet "I have people who do that for me"

http://www.mpja.com

landyacht318 wrote:
.............

I've often thought of feeding the solar controller with a power supply for its ability to program a more desirable charge algorithm.

Some (all?) solar controllers can only be fed by a solar panel. Such controllers work by shorting the panel, which does no harm to the panel, but would likely damage anything else on the input side of a controller.

---Mex has dissed my VEC! Now the poor thing wants a hug and a cookie. :)

I read a lot on this board, listened to some folks that had been doing this a LOT longer than I have, and went with a Mega Watt S350-12 power supply unit. I've since added an inline Radio controller battery charging meter that I found on Ebay for $15, to tell me my output voltage. I set at 14.8V, disconnected from the battery. This is for bulk charging on rainy days. it can be reset to top charge.

The Solar 30 charge controller for my 150W solar panel is set at 15.0V for my stubborn to charge fully due to shape and design battery, for top charging, daily.

Equalize charging is done by bypassing the solar charge controller once every 10-12 days, and wiring the solar panel directly to the battery under mid day sun for 1.5 to 2 hours, max

YMMV, I have a 21 foot travel trailer, and am of the KISS principle of charging batteries. That's as 3 stage as it gets, all manually.

I water my batteries manually also, when needed, which is rarely, 7 to 10 month spans, if I recall correctly.

I will equalize charge before going on a 2 week camping trip, and equalize charge when I get home, disconnect the batteries while in storage, and do the same thing, next pre trip.

I am certain my batteries will last a very, very long time with this minimalist type of treatment.

The Trace U2512SB and controls

My Meanwell RSP-500-15 had a 1K OHM potentiometer, which I removed and replaced with wires which lead to a 1K ohm 10 turn potentiometer of dubious quality. Some Caig f5 Fader lube mostly cleared up the dubious factor, but I think I will need to open it back up and respray it every so often, so that dialing in voltage to 0.01 is as joyful as it is at present.

My Cheapowatt, also used the 1K ohm potentiometer, and this was much simpler to remove the potentiometer and add wiring leading to the 1K ohm 10 turn potentiometer, compared to the MeanWell.

How I wish there was a good plug and play 3 stage charger I could recommend when asked to do so. The B&D/ Vec1093 seems to be the favorite here but it is not inexpensive, nor always available. My Schizo Schumacher sc2500a could not be trusted to either fully charge, or not seriously overcharge when left alone.

My Bluesky sb2512i solar controller with IPN pro remote at least gives me the option of choosing absorption voltage/ duration and has a threshold of amps which triggers an adjustable float voltage. Unfortunately my roof space is limited, and 200 watts is not quite enough to achieve the 'recommended' 10% rate for most of the year of my still screwy 31 USbattery.

I've often thought of feeding the solar controller with a power supply for its ability to program a more desirable charge algorithm.