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landyacht318's avatar
landyacht318
Explorer
Nov 30, 2013

Modified my Schumacher

Model number sc2500a. No longer in production.

This Charger works pretty nicely as a converter, on the 12 amp setting, handling such cycling loads as a ~2.7 amp compressor fridge and a 6.2 amp mattress heating pad, without getting confused and shutting off as it does on the 2 amp or 25 amp setting.

I've had a difficult time clicking on the "place order" button on an Iota or PD or Powermax converter, because this charger meets my needs, and with the 3 different charging profiles(regular, deep cycle, and AGM/GEL), it might be considered superior in some circles.

However I would not trust if for a GEl battery, and there seems to be little difference between regular and deep cycle, that I have noticed anyway.

MOst recently, and not shown in the picture is that I got rid of the SAE 12v quick connector which loved to heat up, and replaced it with 30 amp Anderson powerpoles, which do not.

What is shown in the picture is the External Fan I installed in place of the annoyingly loud fan that came inside the unit.


The 40mmx10mm fan which came installed in it was rated at 28db, and 6.3 CFM and 0.12a. Much too loud for my ears.

The 60x20MM Fan I installed draws the same current, but moves 3x as much air, and I can barely hear it.

BUT, I think perhaps it is too much airflow. There is no battery temp sensor, I figure there is some sort of temp sensor inside the unit, and now that it has 3x the air flowing through it, it suspects it is in a freezing environment and is raising the charging voltages accordingly.

The voltages which rarely went up into the 15's, now have done so at the end of every charge cycle, and I must now babysit the dang thing, and unplug it, as my batteries are new, and do not need such voltages at this stage in their life.

The new fan came with 2 optional inline resistor cables to lower the fan speeds and noise levels. The slowest one will still move more air than the original fan. I can hook both resistor cables inline to slow it even further but am not sure of the airflow with both in series.

I am not very confident in my fan/temp sensor hypothesis. The fan runs the same speed on the 2/12/25 amp settings, and the charger only seems to produce any noticeable heat on the 25 amp setting. It has also done the sky high voltages before(not for years) with out flashing the light that says it has decided to do the equalization cycle where one might expect to see such voltages. The EQ feature is Not manual

I guess I am gong to install those resistor cables now and see if the charging voltages change, but I suspect they wont, and I will have to babysit it near the end of the charge cycle from here on out, which I'd rather not have to do.

What do you all think about my hypothesis?

16 Replies

  • I used to couple a charger through a SOLAR CONTROLLER when I wanted to establish a voltage set point. Used a 1K uf electrolytic capacitor to smoooooothe out the ripple a little.
  • The point of a converter is that it supplies a constant voltage to power the accessories in the RV, and oh by the way also charges the battery. It's set up as a constant voltage, variable current power source, in other words. Modern converters will run at a constant 13.6 volts, for example, and vary the current from rated output to zero depending on the load and battery condition. Other converters can be put into a battery charge mode, where they can do a three stage (bulk, absorbtion, maintenance mode) charge then revert to converter mode. A battery charger makes a poor converter, as you've noticed, because it's designed to optimize simple battery charging and not constant voltage supply of power to RV accessories.

    Brian
  • Is there some sort of DC-DC you could put in between to keep the voltage around 13.6 whatever the charger's output is?
  • Okay, lowering the fan CFM made no discernable change in the high voltages. Hypothesis invalid.

    It appears that having reduced my overall capacity, and having a fresh battery under load whilst charging is allowing the cycling accessories to spike the voltage when they shut off.

    My claim that the 12 amp setting allows this charger to work well as a converter is no longer valid with the changed variables of less battery capacity and a new battery too.

    I did get it to stop before 15v on its own but it required shutting off my fridge and mattress heater pad. When the pad was turned back on, the 6.2 amp load of it cycling off and on allowed the voltage to jump up to 15, and when it comes back on it drops to 13.2, and the cycling fridge on top of this is another monkey wrench in the gears. I did not forsee this issue when I decided to lower my overall capacity and am not quite sure how a new battery plays into this scenario either. I knew th evoltage jumped around before, but it was between 13.3 and 13.8, now it is 13.1 and 15.3 with the cycling.

    So now, Iota, Powermax or PD?

    Just kidding, don't answer that.


    Since i have no experience with a real converter, I can only suspect they are much more resilient to cycling loads in regards to voltage they hold the battery at. Guess it is time to click that place order button, on one of the three brands I am considering.
  • Thanks. I put both resistors inline but I think I am going to have to take~ 25A/h from the battery for it to attempt to charge. A 10 amp load for a few minutes while I installed the resistor cables was not enough and it just shut itself down, went into float after ~2 minutes of providing 12 amps, and it stopped at 14.4. then dropped to 13.2.

    The fan always runs on this model. Rarely, it will shut off when the charger decides to stop charging when there is no loads on the battery, and it waits for the voltage to drop before resuming and slowly increasing current to hold 13.2/3. It will also shut down the fan when the solar takes over come daylight

    When it does decide to do the auto EQ, if flashes a yellow charging light. I have not noticed that light to be flashing when it has been doing the mid 15v range recently, since new fan install.

    I'd just like to not to have to babysit this "intelli"charger at the end of charge cycle, as much fun as I would have with a variac and a heavy old manual charger.
  • I don't think airflow is going to control the output of the charger. It may have a temperature sensor to activate the fan and that may be tied into the internal voltage regulation of the charger, i.e. when a regulator heats up, it activates the fan circuit.
    My larger multi-amp Schumacher charger has a fan that operates even if a charge level isn't selected (it runs all the time). There may be a way to disable the auto equalization feature or place a switch in that circuit to interrupt. One would have to have a schematic or be able to map the circuits in the charger to do a safe hack like that.

    All of this harkens back to Mex's take on using a dumb charger and having a timer. If we know how the charger operates, we can limit it's charging profile by time in use.

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