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Reddog1's avatar
Reddog1
Explorer II
May 08, 2014

More L.E.D's

If I am reading this correctly, this could be a good buy. I have replaced all of my TC lights (interior and exterior) with LED, and they cost a lot more than these.

10 X White 1156 BA15S LED 27-SMD Light bulbs Tail Backup RV Camper 1141 1003

I understand it to be 10 each for $30 with free shipping. I think they have regulators to allow for higher than 12-volts. It says 12-volt, but later says "7 resistance - lasting longer - wider current range tolerance".

Wayne

10 Replies

  • Reddog1's avatar
    Reddog1
    Explorer II
    May 10, 2014
    Appears this is a honest and concerned vender. They did not know, but did find out. I received clarification on the voltage requirements.

    From the vender:

    "Dear buyer,

    Thanks for you reply.

    I just asked our technician and he told me that 1156 bulbs can accept maximum 14 volt.

    And sorry that we have not up-14volt.

    And if the volt is more big it will not safe and easy cause the bulbs melted.
    Vivi
    Best Regards
    yitamotor.cs@gmail.com
    "
  • nvreloader's avatar
    nvreloader
    Explorer
    May 09, 2014
    Westend,

    I like those holders, but I do not what a "card Holder" is, care to give me a site where I can read up on a "card holder"?

    Tia,
    Don
  • Reddog1's avatar
    Reddog1
    Explorer II
    May 09, 2014
    MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
    Beware of hype. Most retailers are more bogus than a three dollar bill when it comes to honesty or even intelligence about their LED product.

    I emailed the seller:
    "What is the acceptable voltage spread on your LEDs?"

    The response:

    "Dear buyer,
    Do you mean how many volt 1156-27smd?
    1156-27SMD has 12volt and they can accept 12volt"

    Kinda looks like maybe these are 12-volt only. This would turn me away from them. As you pointed out, the response suggest they have a lack of intelligence about their LED product/s, or maybe english is not their first language.

    MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
    I have come to the conclusion after purchasing CREE, SMD, Bridgelux, and every other damned type of LED lamp that watt for watt they offer ZERO percent advantage over G.E. CFL lamp lighting efficiency.
    This could be a very long discussion. In my opinion, it depends on one's idea of efficiency. For the RV not connected to shore power, there are several considerations in determining LED efficiency.
  • westend's avatar
    westend
    Explorer
    May 09, 2014
    I couldn't get the leaded crystal glass but these card frames I got at the dollar store work pretty good. :)



    These two are located right in the center of my rig's ceiling and are mounted on an aluminum plate because the plate is over two access junction boxes that house all my AC and DC wiring.



    I also have a few single card frames on the ceiling in various spots. The card frames are easy to use, I paste an LED panel onto a piece of white aluminum sheet and secure it to the ceiling with a couple of screws. The silver card frame and glass is then slid onto the aluminum sheet.

    For connections to the RV wiring, I use one of the included adaptor pigtails with the molex connector. That connector snaps onto the LED panels wiring. Should a panel fail, I can pull it off the aluminum mounting sheet, paste a new one on and connect right back up.

    I've tried a few of these LED panels and the ones I came to like are 48-3528 in warm white. Like Mex said, not all panels are equal, it pays to order a few from China and see which seller has the best.

    BTW, all of mine are unregulated and have endured voltages as high as 14.9 V. None have failed.
  • NinerBikes's avatar
    NinerBikes
    Explorer
    May 09, 2014
    MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
    OPINION TIME

    Remove lens. Measure the space available INSIDE the fixture. Height by width.

    Find the combination of SMD's on plates (the plates vary by the number of smd's mounted in them). The combination. Whatever sizes it takes to CRAM the maximum number of LED's into the space. Take the stupid bulb mount out to get more space, if you need to.

    Found out by trial and error that pasting the plates directly to the lens rather than to the base yields A LOT MORE LIGHTING. So you got dozens of bright points shining through the lens.....sue me. It's worth it.

    The micro wiring that comes with these plates is hard to work with. You need to SOLDER the wires to a common junction. Easily done on a kitchen table because you are working with the LENS and not the base. 18 gauge makes a fine connection to the whatever color positive and negative wires that feed your fixture.

    But don't overlook pasting the plates to the LENS. For me, it yielded at least TWICE the light. Those plastic lenses are garbage. The right way to go would be leaded crystal glass. But if you paste the plates to the base you might as well stay with incandescent IMHO.



    I don't even paste my led's to the lens, they are in place by gravity. Huge increase in lighting efficiency.
  • MEXICOWANDERER's avatar
    MEXICOWANDERER
    Explorer
    May 08, 2014
    OPINION TIME

    Remove lens. Measure the space available INSIDE the fixture. Height by width.

    Find the combination of SMD's on plates (the plates vary by the number of smd's mounted in them). The combination. Whatever sizes it takes to CRAM the maximum number of LED's into the space. Take the stupid bulb mount out to get more space, if you need to.

    Found out by trial and error that pasting the plates directly to the lens rather than to the base yields A LOT MORE LIGHTING. So you got dozens of bright points shining through the lens.....sue me. It's worth it.

    The micro wiring that comes with these plates is hard to work with. You need to SOLDER the wires to a common junction. Easily done on a kitchen table because you are working with the LENS and not the base. 18 gauge makes a fine connection to the whatever color positive and negative wires that feed your fixture.

    But don't overlook pasting the plates to the LENS. For me, it yielded at least TWICE the light. Those plastic lenses are garbage. The right way to go would be leaded crystal glass. But if you paste the plates to the base you might as well stay with incandescent IMHO.
  • mchero's avatar
    mchero
    Explorer
    May 08, 2014
    OK, I need some LED help here, not to hyjack the post....

    Just aquired an 07 Discovery I would LOVE to swap out ALL bubs to LED but where do I go to figure out what bulbs I need. Any link(s) to some pages that will assist me?
    Most of the 12VDC bulbs appear to be to high a wattage...The plastic covers are melting! Plan on doing a solar install as well.

    Thanks all
  • MEXICOWANDERER's avatar
    MEXICOWANDERER
    Explorer
    May 08, 2014
    My 25 smd's draw 2.5 watts. It takes 4 of them to make a nice reading light. Different manufacturer and package but is not a smd a smd?

    Beware of hype. Most retailers are more bogus than a three dollar bill when it comes to honesty or even intelligence about their LED product. I have come to the conclusion after purchasing CREE, SMD, Bridgelux, and every other damned type of LED lamp that watt for watt they offer ZERO percent advantage over G.E. CFL lamp lighting efficiency.
  • msiminoff's avatar
    msiminoff
    Explorer II
    May 08, 2014
    Those LEDs are 6000ºK which is very cool (blue). Some people like this color, but I prefer interior lighting that's closer to 3000ºK...
    Here's the listing for 10 Warm While LEDs from the same Ebay seller.
    The listing doesn't specifically state if the lamps are voltage regulated or not, but these prices there's not much to lose ;)
    -Mark

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