Being in SoCal, I'm interested in what you're getting during the marine layer as most of our camping is on or near the coast. Could you check tomorrow if you have time?
at 9:23am charge was 0.51 amps overcast with "misty air"
at 11:00 supplying 1.55 amps
at 12:26 supplying 2.49 amps , still over cast but NOT misty
@PianoTuna
generator charge started at 90amps (both converters, the Freedom & the wfco), after 1:20 charge rate was 26amps,
I have seen conditions where it was still charging 65amps after 45minutes
the Freedom converter-inverter alone will do 50amps Constant Current until threshold of 14.2v is reached at battery or Four Hours elapsed time which ever comes first
so depending on how LOW the SOC is it can supply 25ampHrs very quickly, in the above example, the batteries would have received at least 65 amps in the previous hr
if MY SOC in the morning is 60% then my 440Ahr bank is down 176Ahrs, that is way too much to attempt to return by MY solar alone, even if my SOC was 70% i would be down 132Ahrs , IF I went (2) days of NO generator my batteries would be 40% or less
SO i use the generator for 0ne to Two hours in the morning then again later in the day, the Solar when working at peak, can maybe HOLD the day loss to a minimum, so my afternoon/evening charge brings the batteries up to maybe 90%, if I do more in the morning and at lunch ( which is OUR main meal, we have lite suppers ) and get them to 90%? early the solar can do the Topping off
NOT having a Hydrometer and NOT getting up at daybreak to check the batteries with said hydrometer before coffee breakfast etc, means i have to rely on my voltmeter readings and NOT have a true scientific SG SOC reading
@Greenrvgreen
Fridge cycle is approx 33% , 20 minutes per Hour, so 8hrs per 24Hr period, my Kill-a-watt does not give me runtime, only watt hr's
calculations using an avg wattage of 120w yield 9hrs, 100w yield 10hrs, the number of hours are not so important its the number of "Watt Hours" used that is important
run current is stated as being 1.4 amps about 160 watts, the KW display usually reads around 136w tapering to 90w just before shut off, 229w displayed surge is common , lasting for about 2 seconds, compressors have a tapering load when the cooling is efficient, using the 136w as avg yields a run time of 8.014 hrs
i was happy yesterday to see a 12amp peak in Mid October, this bodes well for Sunny days, i'm also glad that my Turnigy Power meter displays watt hrs, this is more important than ampHrs as the amps go up or down with the voltage, so with watt Hrs you get the actual power being consumed or in this case returned to the system
avg daily fridge use 1090 watt hrs, inverter efficiency 87-90%
using 88% (even numbers ) returns a battery use of 1238.63 watt hrs consumed for the fridge ( if using ONLY inverter power ), using a NOminal voltage 12.4? this is almost 100ampHrs used for the fridge ( remember if the fridge cycles while I'm charging it uses generator power NOT battery power ) taking this into consideration is how I arrived at 72-80 amp hrs of actual battery drain for fridge use, 4 hrs of charging = 1/6 of 24, 1/6 of 100 = 16.6666 not used from the batteries, also the fridge cycles more during the day ( from being opened during the day for ice & food and while cooking which is when the generator is running so its using genny power ) than at night, so the fridge drain per day when generator is run is less than days with NO generator ie 72-80 Ahrs
this does NOT include all other use, fans or heater or lights ,water pump, charging various electronics (phones etc..) or cordless tools etc
i'm not trying to be complicated, just trying to detail how the numbers are arrived at so Non-math members have an understanding of MY "real world" full timing use,
yes I could very likely make a weekend jaunt and use the generator ONLY for coffee and cooking & hair dryer, with out killing the batteries ( but they would be low 30 to 40% by sunday night '48hrs' ) then plug into shore power for 48 hrs and be ready for next week end, but thats NOT happening , there is NO stick & brick home base
this does NOT include all other use, fans or heater or lights, water pump, charging various electronics (phones etc..) or cordless tools etc
my battery daily SOC will be improved when i get the secondary battery bank installed and wired, still shopping for the components to create a large sealed sliding battery box for the storage area where i'm going to mount them