More Solar for "Us"
Ok, I went off.the deep end? Bought 3 used 37watt uni-solar panels and a blue sky 2000e controller for the hefty price of $400, They were being listed as 75w panels, they are not The tested open...
Forum Discussion
You state:
"Let's say we have 20 amps @ 14.6 volts going into 200 pounds of lead. That's about 300 watts. That works out to about 1000 BTU's, if 100% of the energy going in is waste heat. That may raise the temperature 5 F internal to the battery. But of course, even worst case that doesn't happen--as Mr. Wiz's current is too low."
Almost all the energy goes into boiling the battery. Very little goes to heat. Your paragraph doesn't have any relevance.
As far as current quantity, the controller outputs current to keep the battery at 14.6V. It doesn't really matter the magnitude of that current. What ever it is, it's enough to keep the battery above the boiling point. By definition, 14.6V is above the boiling voltage.
Do you see any advantage having a 14.6V setpoint?
Sal
"Let's say we have 20 amps @ 14.6 volts going into 200 pounds of lead. That's about 300 watts. That works out to about 1000 BTU's, if 100% of the energy going in is waste heat. That may raise the temperature 5 F internal to the battery. But of course, even worst case that doesn't happen--as Mr. Wiz's current is too low."
Almost all the energy goes into boiling the battery. Very little goes to heat. Your paragraph doesn't have any relevance.
As far as current quantity, the controller outputs current to keep the battery at 14.6V. It doesn't really matter the magnitude of that current. What ever it is, it's enough to keep the battery above the boiling point. By definition, 14.6V is above the boiling voltage.
Do you see any advantage having a 14.6V setpoint?
Sal
pianotuna wrote:
That was my point--it isn't boiling it is electrolysis. If my battery bank is at 102 C I don't want to be anywhere near by.
Since you say current doesn't matter, I'd love to see an 875 amp-hour battery gas at 14.6 volts and 1 amp.
