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GordonThree's avatar
GordonThree
Explorer
Apr 06, 2014

mouse-hole to twist-lock

I got the idea to close up my mouse hole with a boat style twist-lock power inlet.

Problem is, my mouse hole is 6.5" across at its widest, and the marine inlets are all less than 4"

I see the kit Camping World sells includes a plastic trim-ring to step down the size of the hole... the rest of the kit I don't need, or the $100+ price tag that is attached to it.

Has anyone seen the trim-ring for sale separately, or have another idea on closing the hole down some?

18 Replies

  • My late husband changed the power cord on our old metal siding trailer. He used butyl tape to seal the mounting square to the siding then ran silicone around it all. Worked like a charm.
  • Bob Landry wrote:
    Make a mounting surface large enough to cover the existing hole. Attach it with SS sheet metal pan head screws at the corners and run a bead of white silicone around the edge smoothing it with a finger. I used King Starboard, but any type of plastic tha can be worked with power tools will work.



    Nice and clean install there.

    The aluminum siding on my KZ is not flat like a fiberglass coach. Makes things a bit more tricky. I'll post up a pic when the sun comes back tomorrow, see what ideas you all can come up with.
  • Make a mounting surface large enough to cover the existing hole. Attach it with SS sheet metal pan head screws at the corners and run a bead of white silicone around the edge smoothing it with a finger. I used King Starboard, but any type of plastic tha can be worked with power tools will work.

  • Ok, so the ring is metal... hard to tell from just the picture.

    If I had to make a trim piece, I'm thinking I would use HDPE, from a thick plastic cutting board. Easily shaped with wood tools, but indestructible in terms of exposure to the elements.

    My cable hatch is made by B&B, but I can't find it in their catalog. The hatch they list is smaller than the one on my coach.
  • Never heard of a mouse hole so I Googled it (seems be a "cable hatch")

    One hit was where they changed theirs and mentions the ring, marinco, etc. Not too clear to me if it applies to the OP, but anyway:

    http://www.title-3.com/DetachPower.htm
  • If you are handy you could make a fill piece with square piece of stainless steel. That would give you some substance for your twist lock to hold on to as it resists turning.
  • Does your access door have a flange all around when the door closes?
    If so, Maybe take off the door but leave the plastic frame/trim. Cut a piece of heavy gauge aluminum cut to fit exactly where the door went. Drill your twist lock hole in the plate so it becomes the mount. Wire up and then drill small mounting holes in the 4 corners and screw into the flange lip. Lay a small bead of caulk on inside lip so plate is sealed. I should add to test fit everything and then paint plate to match before final assembly. Randu
  • The ring i got with my kit was metal. I bought a second kit from eBay that didn't come with the ring, so I called marinco and they said they would send me one. I got tired of waiting for it to come and I made my own. I cut it out of a metal cover from a electrical junction box cover. So if your in no hurry call marinco.