Multi-Meter advice...
I need a new multi-meter.
Anyone have this one: Innova 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter?
LINK
Thanks.
Anyone have this one: Innova 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter?
LINK
Thanks.
Forum Discussion
30 Replies
- My last purchase for work was a Fluke clamp-on ampmeter, but I have others that don't auto-range. I don't think I would spend that again, now that I don't work. The needle test leads and the extra wire with alligator clips are the best tips.
- The meter shown is not Auto-Ranging.
If you have to select a voltage range, it is not auto-ranging.
Really, unless you are a very competent technician, get the Dirt cheapo from Hazard Fright. If you damage it, get another. I give these away to clients. (Back before the depression, I did have some.)
Matt - As many eluded to above, a high quality meter is really a waste of money for the general RVers usage. I have a Fluke, but its a hand me down from the days I used it for work. I would spend $25 bucks to get something that felt pretty good and its accuracy would be good enough for RV work.
KJINTF wrote:
Suggest you cover that poked hole back up afterwards
Lots of satellites up there with tiny needle holesBFL13 wrote:
I mostly use the meter to take Voc and Isc from a solar panel where the clamp on wouldn't work AFAIK. Then I forget to swap the wire over between V and A and blow a fuse. Fuses are a spaz's best friend. A clamp on will measure AC/DC voltage and AC/DC current including 3 legs of a Y. AC/DC amp measurement is non invasive. AC/DC voltage requires access to the wires.
OTOH, at school in Lab, they told us it is a basic fact that you can't measure anything without changing it, so you can't ever get a proper measurement. Like sticking a thermometer in the water, the temp of the thermometer changes the temp of the water. The lab failed in terms of practical solar or RV measurements. A clampon is non invasive and a DVM draws micro amps for voltage measurements so the draw is insufficient. While one could suggest that calibration and accuracy are important even the $5/free HF meters are good for RV voltage as is the $60 clampon for amps.WyoTraveler wrote:
CA Traveler wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
And that is exactly my point! With the low cost of DC clampon meters why would you even consider cutting or opening wires for a serial connected meter versa a clampon???
Rather than the $10 type, which fry if you go over the 10amp limit, I now like the more expensive version that has a fuse in it. I am now ahead on the money buying fuses instead of new meters. :)
And here's my trick - Opening a circuit can and sometimes does change the conditions that you were trying to measure and hence the measurements isn't related to the original cause.
I use a small needle and poke through insulation.
An excellent way to create problems down the road. Water can get into the wiring and will cause corrosion which will eat up the wire strands and cause a reduction in current carrying capability.
It might not happen this year or the next but sometime down the line, you will have a corroded wire.
This is not a good troubleshooting technique.CA Traveler wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
And that is exactly my point! With the low cost of DC clampon meters why would you even consider cutting or opening wires for a serial connected meter versa a clampon???
Rather than the $10 type, which fry if you go over the 10amp limit, I now like the more expensive version that has a fuse in it. I am now ahead on the money buying fuses instead of new meters. :)
And here's my trick - Opening a circuit can and sometimes does change the conditions that you were trying to measure and hence the measurements isn't related to the original cause.
I mostly use the meter to take Voc and Isc from a solar panel where the clamp on wouldn't work AFAIK. Then I forget to swap the wire over between V and A and blow a fuse. Fuses are a spaz's best friend.
Where I did want a clamp on was one time with my Y split on the solar panel wire pair to two controllers on the same bank. I was afraid the current would be over the limit for one controller, so I used two to divide the current. It worked but I could not measure how much current each branch of the Y took.
As you said, the meter wires were skinny and the Y wires fat, so it just showed all the current went the fat way no matter which branch was replaced by the meter. A clamp on would have told the current on each side I expect.
OTOH, at school in Lab, they told us it is a basic fact that you can't measure anything without changing it, so you can't ever get a proper measurement. Like sticking a thermometer in the water, the temp of the thermometer changes the temp of the water.- A meter is useless unless the probe tip can pierce PVC or cross-link insulation
Same for clamping a lead to a wire or terminal
The OLDAKER brand test leads with needle-sharp stainless steel tips are without peer in the test lead world. They make a joke out of Fluke test leads.
Regardless butcher your meter when you get it. Fashion a hook from a coat hanger then lay hands on a strong neodmium magnet and GOOP it to the rear side of the case. WyoTraveler wrote:
Understood and I've done that. But the clampon capability of the clampon meter is invaluable for current measurements.CA Traveler wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
And that is exactly my point! With the low cost of DC clampon meters why would you even consider cutting or opening wires for a serial connected meter versa a clampon???
Rather than the $10 type, which fry if you go over the 10amp limit, I now like the more expensive version that has a fuse in it. I am now ahead on the money buying fuses instead of new meters. :)
And here's my trick - Opening a circuit can and sometimes does change the conditions that you were trying to measure and hence the measurements isn't related to the original cause.
I use a small needle and poke through insulation.
