Multi-Meter advice...

BFL13 wrote:
Rather than the $10 type, which fry if you go over the 10amp limit, I now like the more expensive version that has a fuse in it. I am now ahead on the money buying fuses instead of new meters. :)

Sometimes the fuse doesn't blow first. That is why I posted "especially if it is first meter" I have several pricey meters but don't really need them except for test bench stuff.

OP here. Thanks for the discussion and suggestions.
This is not my first meter....and I use them not only for the trailer but for other uses around the house and vehicles.

I now have a Harbor Freight cheapo and it has given up the ghost.
The one I referenced above can be had for less than $30 delivered.

Suggest you cover that poked hole back up afterwards

CA Traveler wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
Rather than the $10 type, which fry if you go over the 10amp limit, I now like the more expensive version that has a fuse in it. I am now ahead on the money buying fuses instead of new meters. :)

And that is exactly my point! With the low cost of DC clampon meters why would you even consider cutting or opening wires for a serial connected meter versa a clampon???

And here's my trick - Opening a circuit can and sometimes does change the conditions that you were trying to measure and hence the measurements isn't related to the original cause.

I use a small needle and poke through insulation.

BFL13 wrote:
Rather than the $10 type, which fry if you go over the 10amp limit, I now like the more expensive version that has a fuse in it. I am now ahead on the money buying fuses instead of new meters. :)

And that is exactly my point! With the low cost of DC clampon meters why would you even consider cutting or opening wires for a serial connected meter versa a clampon???

And here's my trick - Opening a circuit can and sometimes does change the conditions that you were trying to measure and hence the measurements isn't related to the original cause.

Oh! There was the taillight on the last rig. :B

WyoTraveler wrote:
The trick is to move both probes not just select a common ground when trouble shooting.

Excellent! Many times I've posted connecting to a good frame ground. And I carry a 40' wire with alligator clips for that purpose.

Needed that wire only once and in that case it was a bad ground on the MH that caused the toad lights to be in "outer space".

Rather than the $10 type, which fry if you go over the 10amp limit, I now like the more expensive version that has a fuse in it. I am now ahead on the money buying fuses instead of new meters. :)

CA Traveler is correct. You really don't need much more than a $5 meter. I would not spend $40 for an RV trouble shooting meter. Especially if it is your first meter. If you get sales flyers from Harbor Freight sometimes they give the $5 meter away free. If you can't locate the problem with a $5 meter I would bet the $40 meter wouldn't find the problem either. Many RV problems are grounding problems. The trick is to move both probes not just select a common ground when trouble shooting.

Look like a nice one. However for RV usage a $5 HF (sometimes free) is adequate.

But for a few bucks more the Sears (or equivalent) DC clamp on ammeter offers so much more. There are so many posts about measuring DC amps using inline amp meters (and all that crapolla - a friends favorite expression) while having the ability to quickly measure DC amps can be invaluable. And yes the Sears model is also a DVM.