On your year model Winne
1. THAT solenoid you replaced should NOT have anything to do with the Chassis Alternator charging the Chassis battery.
2. That continuous duty solenoid you replaced does 2 things. When the inside dash switch is engaged on the DUAL indent, it sends a 12 volt signal to that solenoid to close and the chassis and Coach batteries are connected and the Chassis Alternator charges both battery banks. That DUAL position is energized ONLY when the Ignition key is ON.
3. The MOM spring loaded side of the switch is wired to the Coach batteries. When you push and hold MOM(momentary), it uses a 12 volt signal from the Coach batteries to engage that solenoid and combine the Chassis and Coach to start the engine when the chassis battery is low or dead.
4. Almost all motorhomes do not tamper with the Chassis maker Alternator to charge the Chassis battery when engine is ON. There are a few exceptions but very few. The add on controls and solenoids are to charge the Coach batteries when engine is running and to keep the batteries separated when the engine is OFF.
5. IF that solenoid you replaced also kept the chassis from charging, then I will bet someone has miswired the battery cables over the years. Doug
OK, I think I am getting a clearer picture, thanks Doug.
So the Charging Solenoid is used both when the switch is to the left AND to the right. So both left and right just gang the house batteries to the chassis battery.
The difference is, the DUAL option only works when the ignition is also on, but the MOM option works whether the ignition is on or off? Is that right?
I always thought there were two different circuits as the relay made a bigger "clunk" noise when in the MOM position than when in the DUAL position. But maybe I just couldn't notice because the engine is always running when I go to DUAL position.
It could be that it was just chance/luck that when I tapped the solenoid it started charging again.
When I first pulled off the road, I waited a minute, and suddenly it started charging again. Almost left to get back on the road and then the voltage fell off again. This is when I assumed it was a bad alternator. But when I replaced the alternator and fired up the engine, it was still at like 11.6V through the cigarette lighter volt meter. Then I went and whacked the Charging Solenoid and it jumped up to 14V. I had no other issues the entire drive home (6 hours).
It could be something else unrelated.
Also note I have purchased the Charging Solenoid but I have not yet replaced it.
Steve
