need help with BRC-10 furnace

daveinarmstrong wrote:
I know its a home unit, was trying to save some cash. Gas valves are very expensive up here in Canada. SodaJerk got his to work on 12vdc. Thought i might give it a try.
The RobertShaw 710-502 or 710-205 would be ideal. I'll work on finding one. Thanks for the advice Gdetrailer.

Sodajerk may have managed to get a 24V AC valve to "work" by playing around with the internals.. Not exactly a safe or good idea for folks to mess with.

Gas valves have several "stages", just because you hear a clunk, doesn't mean the valve has fully opened.. Valve must have full 24V AC to open both stages.. It IS A "SAFETY FEATURE" and messing with the internals may disable the purposely designed safety feature.

Natural gas is not something one should be experimenting with and propane by it's heavy nature can pool at the lowest point (IE floor level) and build up to the point of an explosion..

A millivolt gas valve setup for propane would be the best possible solution not to mention as safe as possible.

Pair that with a self powered digital T stat (one the has internal batteries) and you should be back in business (some digital T stats "steal" power from the 24V AC coming from the furnace and use rechargeable battery or capacitor power when the stat is calling for heat, those won't work for you).

Millivolt gas valves are still in use by gas fire place inserts so you should be able to find one that will work.

I know its a home unit, was trying to save some cash. Gas valves are very expensive up here in Canada. SodaJerk got his to work on 12vdc. Thought i might give it a try.
The RobertShaw 710-502 or 710-205 would be ideal. I'll work on finding one. Thanks for the advice Gdetrailer.

daveinarmstrong wrote:
I found a used Honeywell VR8200H 1236 gas valve converted to propane. The pilot works and the valve has nice solid click when i apply 12vdc, but no gas to the burner.

That valve is for a HOME FURNACE..

MODERN HOME FURNACES TYPICALLY USE 24V AC to operate the gas valve!!

SEE HERE

per link above..

"Product Specifications
Application: Single Stage
Voltage: 24 Vac
Frequency: 60Hz
Electrical Connections: Combination screw and 1/4 in. male quick connects
Temperature Range : 0 F to 175 F
Body Pattern: Straight-through
Opening Characteristics: Slow Opening
Pressure Ratings (psi): 1/2
Inlet/Outlet Size (in.): 1/2 x 1/2
Side Outlet: N
Pilot Gas Outlet: Compression fitting for 1/4 in. OD tubing
Pressure Tapping: 1/8 in. NPT with plug
Setpoint (in. wc): 3.5 in. wc
Ignition Type: Standing Pilot
Anticipator Setting: 0.5 A"

Try applying 24V AC and see what happens.

There is no way that valve can be made to operate on 12V DC..

You really NEED what is called a "milli-volt" gas valve.. That IS what your original valve was and older home furnaces at one time used millivolt gas valves.. They were also were called "self generating" since the thermopile flame probe generated a tiny voltage (500 millivolts to 750 millivolts)which was used to open the gas valve and did not require external voltage.

HERE is an example of a millivolt gas valve..

I found a used Honeywell VR8200H 1236 gas valve converted to propane. The pilot works and the valve has nice solid click when i apply 12vdc, but no gas to the burner.

thanks, i'll check out home style furnace gas valve. will post details later when its working.

Might try these people in Portland Oregon on Monday Pacific time
Laurelhurst Distributors

Had a similar problem on my 73. Got a home style control that has the safety thermocouple for a standing pilot and works off 18 volts. Tested the valve on 12 volts DC and it works fine. Put a thermostat on the wall, old style heat only and wired it up. It draws very little current. It has been working for over 3 or 4 years. Even in Alaska where we ran the heat many nights. Works for me.