need help with install of inverter in Class B
Currently have one flooded trojan house battery in my 1999 Coachman Class B that also has a onan 2800 genny. Almost impossible for me to get to the existing battery for maintance and I want more batt...
Forum Discussion
Hi NWLady,
Currently the "best bang for the buck" on a PSW inverter is the Prowatt 2000 PSW $355.00
Lifeline units are VERY specific in their charging parameters. It may be better to consider Universal AGM instead.
Since there is limited space, I'd consider an 8D AGM. There are good reasons to avoid external connections on six volt batteries under large loads (200 amps is definitely in that category).
If you attempt to use the existing battery disconnect switch with a 200 amp load you will let out the "magic blue smoke". The wire feeding the switch at 200 amps may act like a fuse and burn out.
Large inverters do better with short runs of thick wire to the battery.
I plug my shore power cord into an outlet powered by the inverter.
I disconnect the converter, and set the fridge to propane only.
I added an auxiliary shore power cord for just the converter, so when I have only a 15 amp source of power I can do "double conversion" and run the RV from my inverter--while charging the battery bank from shore power. It's great for times that I don't have access to the shore power breaker box.
Currently the "best bang for the buck" on a PSW inverter is the Prowatt 2000 PSW $355.00
Lifeline units are VERY specific in their charging parameters. It may be better to consider Universal AGM instead.
Since there is limited space, I'd consider an 8D AGM. There are good reasons to avoid external connections on six volt batteries under large loads (200 amps is definitely in that category).
If you attempt to use the existing battery disconnect switch with a 200 amp load you will let out the "magic blue smoke". The wire feeding the switch at 200 amps may act like a fuse and burn out.
Large inverters do better with short runs of thick wire to the battery.
I plug my shore power cord into an outlet powered by the inverter.
I disconnect the converter, and set the fridge to propane only.
I added an auxiliary shore power cord for just the converter, so when I have only a 15 amp source of power I can do "double conversion" and run the RV from my inverter--while charging the battery bank from shore power. It's great for times that I don't have access to the shore power breaker box.
NWLady wrote:
Currently have one flooded trojan house battery in my 1999 Coachman Class B that also has a onan 2800 genny. Almost impossible for me to get to the existing battery for maintance and I want more battery power. I know I could use my generator for 120v power but HATE the noise but don't want to take genny out as is useful sometimes.
The plan is to do a stepped upgrade.
1st stage: put in four AGM 6v lifeline batteries, a trimetric 2025 rv monitor with 500 amp shunt and upgrading my magnetek 7345 controller with maybe powermax boondocker. (which controller isn't 100% decided.)
I know I don't know everything about this 1st step but I think that there isn't too much modification necessary.
2nd stage: when budget can afford, I want to incorporate a 2000 - 3000 pure sine inverter. I know there are different ways to accomplish this but at present I am favoring the installing a 30 amp receptacle from the inverter on the outside of the van and plugging the shore power plug into this when I want to run 120v off batteries.
I know I have to not have the converter charging the batteries when the inverter is running. ...which I think would be happening if the shore power is plugged into the inverter 30 amp receptacle.
Question: would it work to just use the "disconnect" switch that currently exists when I use the inverter?
I am sorry if this is explained somewhere. I have spent a lot of time looking at the info here and other places. It probably has been answered but I either missed it or didn't clearly understand what was being said.
Thank you very much for any help, Mary my email is: dancermm@comcast.net
