Need help with LEDs and resistance SOLVED
The back light on my 2002 Lance 811 camper has a Intellitec Touch-Lite. This is a just a touch pad on the exterior by the door that when you touch it lights the exterior light for about 30 seconds. ...
Forum Discussion
No can do without roto-rooting the incandescent board and change ICs. Or not save milli-amp hours daily and install a pull down resistor. Zero energy savings
That would be rational with a difficult to change or extremely expensive emitter
Determine bulb number then look up BULB wattage on GOOGLE.
Then you need to order a power resistor that is physically big enough to light up repeatedly light up the LED without becoming too hot. A 10 watt wire wound resistor would be plenty I would think. Pure guesswork says a 12 ohm 10 watt ceramic resistor would be on the ballpark.
More guesswork suggests the resistor would not fit inside the lamp housing.
But the resistor would need to fit *somewhere* between the switch and lamp. This means the wire.
It's tough to describe the relationship in resistor size to the available room versus resistor size. Buy the resistor. They are cheap. Then find a space keeping in mind a small 18 AWG wire needs to tap into TAP INTO the existing switch call the tap a "T" tap into the existing wire.
This leaves the other terminal on the resistor not connected
It needs to have a second new wire
That wire has to go to a VERIFIED good chassis negative meaning "ground"
HINT use the terminal at the switch for your T tap.
Use ?" heat shrink over your soldered connections to the resistor.
.
That would be rational with a difficult to change or extremely expensive emitter
Determine bulb number then look up BULB wattage on GOOGLE.
Then you need to order a power resistor that is physically big enough to light up repeatedly light up the LED without becoming too hot. A 10 watt wire wound resistor would be plenty I would think. Pure guesswork says a 12 ohm 10 watt ceramic resistor would be on the ballpark.
More guesswork suggests the resistor would not fit inside the lamp housing.
But the resistor would need to fit *somewhere* between the switch and lamp. This means the wire.
It's tough to describe the relationship in resistor size to the available room versus resistor size. Buy the resistor. They are cheap. Then find a space keeping in mind a small 18 AWG wire needs to tap into TAP INTO the existing switch call the tap a "T" tap into the existing wire.
This leaves the other terminal on the resistor not connected
It needs to have a second new wire
That wire has to go to a VERIFIED good chassis negative meaning "ground"
HINT use the terminal at the switch for your T tap.
Use ?" heat shrink over your soldered connections to the resistor.
.
