Need help with my sketchy battery cable situation

Based on how this thread has been going so far, I would suggest you get someone out there that knows about trailer wiring right away.

westend wrote:
It's not wise at all. Your lights operate off the 12V system, regardless if they work when plugged into the 120V AC. You need to remove those burnt and inoperative wires, install, a fuse or circuit breaker near the battery, and rewire the trailer up to the distribution panel. You need operating battery connections and an operable 12V system to move the trailer. Without 12V, you have no operating emergency break away system.

To someone unfamiliar with RV wiring or wiring in general, this may all seem like an insurmountable task but it's not. If you don't want to pay an RV specialist to do the work, start asking around to find a person conversant with electrical systems. You should be able to find a friend or a friend of a friend to help you out with this. If you decide to reconnect the batteries with the known, burnt wiring, there is a real chance that you will start a fire and possibly burn your RV to the ground.

I'm sorry, but there's no real NICE way to advise you on this, you need to fix your wiring issues. It's not that big of a job.

Maybe, if you listed your location, one of the guys on here would offer to help.

I apologize for being unclear. What I meant was that I have some string lights running off the 120v AC system (along with all my appliances), so it doesn't matter if I'm unable to use the 12v lights for a time.

What I was asking about the water pump is, can I bypass the existing wiring completely for now and run a new wire straight from the batteries to the pump, with a fuse of course.

I do have a friend who works as a plumber and knows some electricians. She is working on getting me in touch with one of them. I'm just looking for a temporary fix until I can get it done for real, because living without the water pump is annoying.

RJsfishin wrote:
Quote:
My advice ?
Despite the wiring mess you have, it was working, so don't fix it. But DO add a fuse in the positive wire at the battery !!!!

Haha, well there was a burned out wire, insulation melted off it and everything, so I would hardly say it was working properly! I will definitely not use it as-is, even with a fuse installed.

That small box was most likely a breakaway switch for the trailer brakes.

Quote:
It's not wise at all. Your lights operate off the 12V system, regardless if they work when plugged into the 120V AC.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Be careful of statements like this, which is not true of most all old RVs !

It was inconsiderate of the OP to post the black wire going to the frame, when in reality IT DID NOT. Most this thread was wasted because of this "mistake????"

My advice ?
Despite the wiring mess you have, it was working, so don't fix it. But DO add a fuse in the positive wire at the battery !!!!

It's not wise at all. Your lights operate off the 12V system, regardless if they work when plugged into the 120V AC. You need to remove those burnt and inoperative wires, install, a fuse or circuit breaker near the battery, and rewire the trailer up to the distribution panel. You need operating battery connections and an operable 12V system to move the trailer. Without 12V, you have no operating emergency break away system.

To someone unfamiliar with RV wiring or wiring in general, this may all seem like an insurmountable task but it's not. If you don't want to pay an RV specialist to do the work, start asking around to find a person conversant with electrical systems. You should be able to find a friend or a friend of a friend to help you out with this. If you decide to reconnect the batteries with the known, burnt wiring, there is a real chance that you will start a fire and possibly burn your RV to the ground.

I'm sorry, but there's no real NICE way to advise you on this, you need to fix your wiring issues. It's not that big of a job.

Maybe, if you listed your location, one of the guys on here would offer to help.

Ok, not sure if anyone will see this but update is that there was no fuse, the red wire is positive, and it wasn't grounded- that little black wire goes to a small box attached to the frame right there. No idea what it's for. I would post a pic but it's irrelevant because there's no way I can use this system as is. I found a burned wire in the mass of wires inside the small panel cut-out where the battery leads enter the underside of the trailer.

New question- how crazy would it be to run temporary wires from the battery to the water pump fuse in my fuse box? And how exactly would I do that? I can't afford to pay for rewiring and don't trust myself to do it. The water pump is all I really need battery power for right now since I have lights hooked up to city power.

I think that the assumption that the black wire is grounded may be wrong. Only the OP knows for sure, but per the attached pic, it seems to continue past the "ground bolt". Could be a feed to an electric jack or a connection to the charge wire in the umbilical.

Also from the size of the taped up area, it may contain an inline fuse.

spacebetty wrote:

dan-nickie wrote:
Are you 100% sure the red was on positive before you disconnected them?

With the small black connected to the red and frame, I just don't see how that could be?

I'm absolutely sure. And my water pump worked!

Weird. I hope you get it figured out.

Ok, when I get off work I'm going to westmarine for some wiring supplies. When I get home I'll take a closer look at what's going on and post again with more questions, I'm sure :-) Thanks for all the help so far y'all!