New Batch 10 watt LED's Arrive Back Spasms

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
You bet, and thank you, rather than glue it to a crushed Tecate can, what and where would a person find correct heat sinks for these 20 watt chips?

You could make a bunch of heatsinks out of this one HERE for $8.50 plus shipping...

On edit..

How about surplus new CPU coolers?

HERE

or

HERE

For $2.95 plus shipping..

Discard the fan if you like and or even cut the heatsinks in half since they were designed to cool early Pentium processors which were power hogs.. I would think they should be more than enough...

You bet, and thank you, rather than glue it to a crushed Tecate can, what and where would a person find correct heat sinks for these 20 watt chips?

Mex
would these work ?
this place is very reliable, regarding quality and specs



20w 1600 lumen $7.95 each

http://www.mpja.com/01-21-14.asp?r=318221&s=13

i bet you could find head sinks too

i wonder about using 'flatten' alu soda/beer cans

or maybe this

5 meters approx 3300 lumens



$17.95

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Hah I forgot to mention this is Mexico.

"Surplus, spare, extra, unneeded" copper or aluminum? Shirley you jest. Place a strip of copper on a roadway, count to ten. Then count the number of scrap metal "chattareros" racing to be the first to snatch it up. Bushes, trash cans, under the kitchen sink, every place is scoured to find scrap copper, aluminum and steel.

Copper for pipes does not exist brand new. Plastic, rules.

I found a 17" long 3 lb. heat sink in an electronics surplus store for a 3 X 100 watt LED project I am considering. Cost is 25 dollars plus considerable shipping.

I did some searching on the internet by Google for appropriate 10 watt heatsinks and ended up dizzy. Something pre-drilled would be great.

But something smells like month-old carp about the whole LED lumen, wattage, and heatsink subject. Professional re-sellers like mickey-mouser recommend using heat sinks far and away (by magnitudes) larger than what I see as being used in "advertised for "X" wattage "X" lumen plates". Even Chinese websites show low wattage flood lamps with humungous size heatsinks. The fixture price is not cheap.

For the "Big Lumen Project" I am damned near ready to throw in the towel and buy a 400 watt Metal Halide fixture. I simply cannot find any way to verify 4 100 watt LED plates would stand a chance to supply equivalent lighting. The fixture is going up twenty three feet in the air to light up a warehouse size store. The LED promise is enticing, supposedly much less wattage (try FIFTY DOLLARS A MONTH SAVINGS in power if the LED hype is true). But something is wrong with the tinker-toy grade experiences I have had with the smaller plates. It is embarrassing to find out "You Have Been HAD Bro'"

Pretty good chance that you already HAVE some aluminum on hand..

If you have any soda or beer in a can, then you HAVE a heatsink...

Alternately if you have a can of any vegetable you already have a heatsink (like a mentioned STEEL will work as a heatsink in a pinch, just not as good as aluminum or copper).

This is one place which you do not need a fancy factory made heatsink, all you need is a bit of metal to add to the plate.

In reality a piece of aluminum, copper, steel measuring about 1"x1" square should be able to dissipate about 8W of heat (in free air) if you make some cuts into the edges and bend the cuts open a bit (think like making a "V" or "Y" shape).

I have seen many small heatsinks that were designed for power transistor or IC outputs of 8W no bigger than 3/4" x 1" that had a "U" shape with fins simply made from the side cuts.

While homemade heatsinks may not be ideal they are cheap and plentiful if you think outside the "CAN".

The idea is to keep the chip cool, they can be run "hot", basically temperatures cool enough that you can handle it without getting burned should be OK to use.

Start with a bigger piece of scrap metal and cut it smaller monitoring just how hot it gets, pretty good chance you will not need a big fancy factory made heat sink.

In my testing I started on the low end with 9V then increased the voltage (current will rise and so will the heat which needs to be dissipated) to 11.2V.

At 9V, I barely felt any heat, at 11.2V my heatsink got warm to touch but not hot enough to burn (keep in mind I was using 3x4 inch 1/16 aluminum).

To think, in the states I used to buy those small heatsinks at my local Radio Shack for $.79, sadly they carry very few parts like this now days..

BUT, you can get some HERE at 3 for $1 (I think they do have a minimum order so you might need to read up on that).

Or other ones they have HERE

There are plenty of other options for buying electronic related parts, Ebay is not one of them... Not sure how they handle the Mexico thing but I will give a few of the ones I have used or am aware of.

MCM ELECTRONICS

ALL ELECTRONICS (listed several from this website in my links above)

SKYCRAFT SURPLUS

HALTED ELECTRONICS

Search for "electronic surplus"

HERE

Alternately ANY tossed out computer, TV, stereo, even brick power supplies will have some sort of heatsinks which can be repurposed.

As a caution, if using copper then you would want to use a silicone or mica insulator between the copper and the chip.

The plate on the chip is aluminum.

Copper and aluminum are not the best of "friends" electrically so you need to keep them "happy" with a non electrically conductive product but it must be able to transfer the heat.

Hi Mex,

I know Tesla is using led technology for head lights.

Some one said you can have any two of cheap, reliable, and fast. I think led lumens could be put in place of one of those words.

My previous RV had mast lights--which cost me $27.00 each because the seller absolutely refused to combine the shipment costs. They produced less light than an 1156 bulb--but they ran cool and could take the over voltage that the Magnatronic converter smashed at them.

Hah I forgot to mention this is Mexico.

"Surplus, spare, extra, unneeded" copper or aluminum? Shirley you jest. Place a strip of copper on a roadway, count to ten. Then count the number of scrap metal "chattareros" racing to be the first to snatch it up. Bushes, trash cans, under the kitchen sink, every place is scoured to find scrap copper, aluminum and steel.

Copper for pipes does not exist brand new. Plastic, rules.

I found a 17" long 3 lb. heat sink in an electronics surplus store for a 3 X 100 watt LED project I am considering. Cost is 25 dollars plus considerable shipping.

I did some searching on the internet by Google for appropriate 10 watt heatsinks and ended up dizzy. Something pre-drilled would be great.

But something smells like month-old carp about the whole LED lumen, wattage, and heatsink subject. Professional re-sellers like mickey-mouser recommend using heat sinks far and away (by magnitudes) larger than what I see as being used in "advertised for "X" wattage "X" lumen plates". Even Chinese websites show low wattage flood lamps with humungous size heatsinks. The fixture price is not cheap.

For the "Big Lumen Project" I am damned near ready to throw in the towel and buy a 400 watt Metal Halide fixture. I simply cannot find any way to verify 4 100 watt LED plates would stand a chance to supply equivalent lighting. The fixture is going up twenty three feet in the air to light up a warehouse size store. The LED promise is enticing, supposedly much less wattage (try FIFTY DOLLARS A MONTH SAVINGS in power if the LED hype is true). But something is wrong with the tinker-toy grade experiences I have had with the smaller plates. It is embarrassing to find out "You Have Been HAD Bro'"

I'd suggest: Hammer flat a section/s of copper pipe, attach super-bright LED, power up. You may want to add in a simple voltage divider or regulation, depending on your power source.

I have 36 & 48 smd 1028 panels, warm white, in overhead fixtures and they throw enough light for my use. I tried a 12 smd 5050 panel, cool white, for task lighting and was underwhelmed.

If your newly purchased LED's won't work for lighting, maybe you should rope them altogether for a heat pad.:B

Wishing you the best, Mex!

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
The above recommended LED plates look great. But the HEAT SINKS cost more than the plates. Thirty bucks for a 10 watt plate and heat sink is a little hard to take. Then, they want shipping and some want tax. All I want to do is get a white LED that puts out as much light as a 26 watt white G.E. CFL. This is getting nuts :(

Like GDETrailer wrote, you don't need a fancy heatsink. I've bought these same emitters in the waterproof floodlight configuration. They just have these bolted to the inside of the cast housing. Buy it, be creative with a solution. No need to buy a pre-made heatsink, or if you really want to go that path, repurpose a surplus one.

BTW, those 12V LED dimmers you can get on Ebay cheap work GREAT if you don't want full brightness all the time.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-8A-LED-Light-Dimmer-Brightness-Adjustable-Bright-Controller-Single-Color-/271269022314

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
The above recommended LED plates look great. But the HEAT SINKS cost more than the plates. Thirty bucks for a 10 watt plate and heat sink is a little hard to take. Then, they want shipping and some want tax. All I want to do is get a white LED that puts out as much light as a 26 watt white G.E. CFL. This is getting nuts :(

A chunk of aluminum or copper sheet will work as a heat sink, at the worst but still useful a piece of steel can be used. Basically most metals can be used as a heatsink, some work better than others.

I simply took a piece of 1/16 thick aluminum about 3x4 inches and bolted the chip to that (use some silicone heatsink compound between the two). The chip has two small holes which I tapped out and used a couple of machine threaded screws I had laying around.

If you want to go insane, they do have a 100W LED chip, but you would need a DC-DC switcher to take 12V up to 32V. That one would light up your entire RV and most likely would look like you are welding...

Can't say how they will hold up but I personally plan to under drive them for best life. Just something these clowns just don't understand, they take 20 or 30 fractional watt LEDs then drive them at the very top edge of the max ratings. It is no wonder that folks get spotty life results...

The above recommended LED plates look great. But the HEAT SINKS cost more than the plates. Thirty bucks for a 10 watt plate and heat sink is a little hard to take. Then, they want shipping and some want tax. All I want to do is get a white LED that puts out as much light as a 26 watt white G.E. CFL. This is getting nuts :(