When hooked up to shore power, just use one of these (Link):
https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Vehicles/dp/B07JYDY7FQ/ref=sxts_rp_s_a1_0?crid=1V4RUX6Y2YVRO&cv_ct_cx=battery+knife+switch&keywords=battery+knife+switch&pd_rd_i=B07JYDY7FQ&pd_rd_r=0afd5500-0ede-4cbd-a902-966165ee207e&pd_rd_w=DRC4v&pd_rd_wg=OzLnR&pf_rd_p=ae71c5d9-0355-41f0-ae0d-6fe5c47bc5dd&pf_rd_r=XXFHAMRTKRHDZ8FE0W1W&psc=1&qid=1652481232&sprefix=Battery+knife%2Caps%2C470&sr=1-1-5985efba-8948-4f09-9122-d605505c9d1e
Solar should not cause any difficulties because with Lithium (LFP) there’s no real need to charge it to a full 100% SOC (state of charge) like you would with a lead-battery, except for the ‘occasional’ cell-balancing regime - in fact, except for cell-balancing, it’s far better to avoid maintaining the battery at a full state of charge, and thanks to LFP’s far deeper discharge characteristics, you can just allow the solar to battery just ‘play’ somewheres between the upper and lower SOC span…However, because of LFP’s relatively flat voltage discharge plateau, determining SOC can be problematic, thus I’d recommend a quality lithium compatible SOC meter, something like a Victron ‘Smart-Shunt’ (smart phone compatible), or of equivalent make…
Charging LFP’s is simple, so long as ‘post, cell-balancing’ you don’t overcharge for an extended period of time…
I would also recommend (because of some stray info interlopers), that you endeavor to follow forum advice from those who have ‘actual’ hands-on LFP operational and ownership experience…JMHO Only…
3 tons