My old shocks are discontinued. My new shocks have longer studs so I have to remove the plate under the u-bolts (above the u-bolt nuts) in order to install them. There is what I thought was a bolt in the center of the place that would hole the leaf springs in place but either there was a nut and it fell off or there never was (I suspect this) so when removed the nuts the leaf springs popped out of the upper center hole (a short post was holding it in there) and I don't know how to get it back in there. I'm guessing it might be kind of difficult. You input would be appreciated but, again, anyone who can't offer up a respectful reply will be blocked. I don't know why it took me so long to weed out the trolls but it's time to clean this place up, at least for myself, so that I can actually enjoy coming here to ask questions.Thanks much....

the leaf spring center bolt holds the spring together but does not hold it to anything else. The head of the center bolt sets in ether that plate or the axle. The ubolts hold the spring to the axle.

Sounds like the nut came off of the spring tie bolt, either way this bolt does not hold the spring to the axle or U bolt plate, it does have a stud on one side to align the axle in the right spot on the spring (on top for axle above spring or bottom axle below spring). I would go to a auto parts house with said bolt and get a new one to replace it with, For this one needs a couple of C clamps to pull the springs back together with bolt in place minus the nut, once springs are back together the nut can be replaced.Hope this helps some.

Is the center bolt still in place, so the spring pack still fully assembled like the above pic, or have the leaves separated?And is the spring assembly still attached to the vehicle at both ends?If so, just a matter of horsing it back into place. Oh, What are you working on? Sounds like maybe a trailer.Some applications require new U-Bolts after it's been taken apart... Is the axle above or below the spring?Can't visualize the longer studs you mention on the new shocks. I hope your replacements offer the same "throw." By that I mean will they compress at least a little shorter and stretch at least a little longer than the originals. If not, I think you're headed for some grief.Pix would help.

j-d wrote:Is the center bolt still in place, so the spring pack still fully assembled like the above pic, or have the leaves separated?And is the spring assembly still attached to the vehicle at both ends?If so, just a matter of horsing it back into place. Oh, What are you working on? Sounds like maybe a trailer.Some applications require new U-Bolts after it's been taken apart... Is the axle above or below the spring?Can't visualize the longer studs you mention on the new shocks. I hope your replacements offer the same "throw." By that I mean will they compress at least a little shorter and stretch at least a little longer than the originals. If not, I think you're headed for some grief.Pix would help.Thanks for the responses, Guys...Spring is still together, assembled. I haven't completely removed the plate. I stopped removing nuts when I saw the leave spring shift. Spring assembly is still connected at both ends.The axle is above the spring. (I'll load some pics)It's a 36' fifth-wheel. The shocks are double-studded (both ends go through a plate and there is a nut that hold it on. It's discontinued and I found one with the same size body but with slightly longer studs and I barely got the old ones out as it is. I talked to a guy at the suspension place here (great rep) and he said the ones I ordered would be a good substitute. I already have the new U-bolts in my position and ready to install. But if I can't figure out how to move leaf springs around this isn't going to happen. I may have to hire a mobile guy to come over and tag-team the installation with me.

They're not kidding about the u-bolt's needing to be replaced.

Next issue...leaf spring unseated during u-bolt removal...

Gene_Ginny
Explorer
Feb 24, 2016
cannesdo wrote:
...The leaf springs will still come off, even with it off the ground, right? If you remove that u-bolt plate?
The longest leaf spring in the pack is attached to the trailer frame. The shorter leaves are clamped to it and should not seperate from the long leaf.
cannesdo
Explorer
Feb 24, 2016
Thanks, guys...yes, huge relief. And now the guys on the Alpenlite FB forum are saying, "Did you grease everything while you were in there?" Sigh.....
cannesdo
Explorer
Feb 24, 2016
Gene&Ginny wrote:
With the weight of the trailer on the tires/axle that is true but if the frame is lifted and supported, as you did, then the weight of the axle is resting on and supported by the spring pack. At that point there is no tension on the U bolts and both U bolts and the plates could be removed. The key being that the weight of the axles is resting on the spring pack.

The leaf springs will still come off, even with it off the ground, right? If you remove that u-bolt plate?
Walaby
Explorer II
Feb 24, 2016
Congrats. While I know you've been under a lot of stress (it seems), You should feel proud of what you have acccomplished and learned.

Mike
Gene_Ginny
Explorer
Feb 24, 2016
Good job. Glad to see it is all completed safely. I would venture to say that you are probably feeling much less stressed right now. :)
cannesdo wrote:
... The plates too are wrong so it will be hard for me to replace those (since I have learned -- you can only replace one u-bolt at a time!) ...
With the weight of the trailer on the tires/axle that is true but if the frame is lifted and supported, as you did, then the weight of the axle is resting on and supported by the spring pack. At that point there is no tension on the U bolts and both U bolts and the plates could be removed. The key being that the weight of the axles is resting on the spring pack.
cannesdo
Explorer
Feb 24, 2016
Ok....Update... Success!! The leaf spring is back where it should be. U-bolts have been replaced and torqued to spec. Here's how I got the spring back in line (actually I see I took this pic before I moved the jack over under the 2nd layer of the spring. It seemed to be separating the 1st and 2nd and it seems strange so I moved it over. Under the 3rd spring doesn't work...has to be 2nd:

The mechanic who said no to the drum lift said this would be fine. The jack is only half-way up here. Had to get that joint up so it was a 45 degree angle. I tried putting the jack closer to the drum but that didn't work. Had to push that joint up. The leaf spring pin and he hole were a little out of line but with the u-bolt nuts loose I put a screwdriver behind the springs and pulled them forward with leverage and it popped into place. I learned in the process that Alpenlite made a mistake on my rig and put 5200 lb u-bolts on a 7K lb axle. ?! The plates too are wrong so it will be hard for me to replace those (since I have learned -- you can only replace one u-bolt at a time!) The suspension guys weren't as freaked out by that as I was. Been on the road 8 years with the wrong u-bolts. phff...

Got all the shocks in. Suspension guy also said to tighten them so they're secure then just a little bit more, not bulging.

Here's the finished work. Boy did I learn a lot. Thanks so much for the help!
Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Feb 23, 2016
Tin Pusher wrote:
A speed bump lifts the wheel, which lifts the axle via the wheel studs. No load applied to the drum, especially not a concentrated load like you'd get from a jack.

However .... up to you.

Actually, a jack would apply the "load" if you will to the very outside EDGE of the drum to be a bit more precise.

Then the fact that a bottle jack will have less than 1 square inch of "contact area" you will impart THOUSANDS of lbs on that little itty bitty area of the drum.

The result could be a out of round drum and the possibility of overloading and damaging the bearings in the process..

But, that isn't the worst part of it at all, you would be placing that jack under a MOVABLE UNSTABLE item.. That DRUM could roll frontwards or backwards easily and FLING the jack right from under the drum..

Result would not be pretty if you are in the way.. :E

BUT, I am glad the OP decided to not do that..

The main idea is to get the job done with all fingers, hands, toes and other body parts attached while still be able to move and breathe and in good working order.
cannesdo
Explorer
Feb 23, 2016
Called a mechanic. He said "no" to putting a bottle jack under the brake drum. So no it is....

Thanks eHoefler for the response. :)
cannesdo
Explorer
Feb 23, 2016
Bird Freak wrote:

I was not trying to seem rude as I stated but just hate to see people hurt.

Everyone is passionate about their input. My neighbors tell me things with such certaintly, and one has been working on 5th-wheels of his own for years, that turn out to be wrong. It isn't personal. I take everything into consideration. If you have a lot of experience it would probably be helpful if you noted that along with your suggestion.
Tin_Pusher
Explorer II
Feb 23, 2016
A speed bump lifts the wheel, which lifts the axle via the wheel studs. No load applied to the drum, especially not a concentrated load like you'd get from a jack.

However .... up to you.