Nice Remote Mounted Alternator Rectifier
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-MDS300A-3-Phase-Diode-Bridge-Rectifier-300A-Amp-Power-1600V-/252284678660?hash=item3abd56b204:g:4~cAAOSwe7BWvWFk http://www.ebay.com/itm/Large-Aluminum-Heat-...
Forum Discussion
Perhaps this will help explain how it really works.
"Posted By: MEXICOWANDERER on 08/16/12 09:24am
Alternator 102 Scenario (1)
Alternator stator feeding 2 rectifiers. One sense lead for Voltage Regulator.
The OEM sense lead should remain connected to the chassis battery unless the technician knows exactly what he is doing.
Regulator sense lead informs voltage regulator that the setpoint has been reached. Let's call it 14.2 volts for drill. There is ALWAYS a load present on the chassis battery so the alternator never "shuts off" with a full battery.
16.0 Volts AC will be present at the 3 stator taps. The positive rectifier will consume, let's say .9 volts junction drop and the negative also .9 volt junction drop. 16.0 minus 1.8 volts added for the 2 full wave rectification. Result 14.2 volts.
So 14.2 volts must be there or the regulator will kick the rotor field in the pants and scream "WORK HARDER!"
The same 16.0 volts is sent to the remote rectifier. The voltage better not "drop" or there is line loss and it needs to be fixed. Bad wiring.
The remote rectifier declares "Oh look, I see see 16.0 volts, and I too have .9 volt rectifier junction drop meaning I too will have 14.2 at the + and - output terminals.
If the remote rectifier draws down hard and reduces AC stator tap voltage. The alternator output voltage drops and the voltage regulator will scream WORK! WORK!"
"Posted By: MEXICOWANDERER on 08/16/12 09:24am
Alternator 102 Scenario (1)
Alternator stator feeding 2 rectifiers. One sense lead for Voltage Regulator.
The OEM sense lead should remain connected to the chassis battery unless the technician knows exactly what he is doing.
Regulator sense lead informs voltage regulator that the setpoint has been reached. Let's call it 14.2 volts for drill. There is ALWAYS a load present on the chassis battery so the alternator never "shuts off" with a full battery.
16.0 Volts AC will be present at the 3 stator taps. The positive rectifier will consume, let's say .9 volts junction drop and the negative also .9 volt junction drop. 16.0 minus 1.8 volts added for the 2 full wave rectification. Result 14.2 volts.
So 14.2 volts must be there or the regulator will kick the rotor field in the pants and scream "WORK HARDER!"
The same 16.0 volts is sent to the remote rectifier. The voltage better not "drop" or there is line loss and it needs to be fixed. Bad wiring.
The remote rectifier declares "Oh look, I see see 16.0 volts, and I too have .9 volt rectifier junction drop meaning I too will have 14.2 at the + and - output terminals.
If the remote rectifier draws down hard and reduces AC stator tap voltage. The alternator output voltage drops and the voltage regulator will scream WORK! WORK!"
