No DC Power in Pop-Up Trailer

AlexL. wrote:
When I got the trailer, if it were to be plugged into shore power, everything would work regardless of the battery being plugged in or not.

A critical piece of information.
Which indicates that your converter/charger has failed in some manner.
Maybe a blown fuse or loose wire but most likely a component failure.

Thank you all for helping. I know that I should keep the batteries plugged in for charging when plugged into shore power. When I got the trailer, if it were to be plugged into shore power, everything would work regardless of the battery being plugged in or not.
Thanks,
Alex

Sam Spade wrote:

While it is not very likely, it is possible that your converter/charger is shutting down when it doesn't see a battery present.

This would be highly unlikely with older PU converters that have a conv/off/batt switch that isolated the converter from the battery, they simple were not powerful or regulated to be connected to a battery at ANY time.

ya might find an internal fuse inside, here where it is on a CS2000

I'd suggest to try resetting the circuit breakers, also.

If the converter will not output 13.8V, it may be a God-send. It will be nearly impossible to maintain a battery with 13.8V and 12 A or 20 A (depends on which 67** Model) to the battery. A better brand of converter will automatically charge your battery and maintain the correct float voltage.

SoundGuy wrote:
Time to get out a voltmeter and see what you have on the converter output.

AND....you seem intent upon NOT having the batteries connected when plugged into shore power. They should be connected. Except for storage, there is no good reason to ever disconnect them.

Measuring the voltage at the batteries when they are connected and seeing if there is any difference when the shore power is plugged in is a good place to start.

While it is not very likely, it is possible that your converter/charger is shutting down when it doesn't see a battery present.

Progressive Dynamics makes a head unit that should fit. I would agree and multi-meter is your friend, find out if your converter is working.

SoundGuy wrote:
Time to get out a voltmeter and see what you have on the converter output. If indeed it's toast give Best Converter a call for their recommendation on a suitable replacement.

X2 on BestConverter.com

Time to get out a voltmeter and see what you have on the converter output. If indeed it's toast give Best Converter a call for their recommendation on a suitable replacement.

Thanks for replying. It's a MagneTek 6700 series converter. There are no signs of scorching or burning, but that doesn't mean it isn't dead. However I would be surprised on my luck, I bought it 2 days ago.