No DC

Take a negative line from the battery to the negative on the converter. If that makes things work properly, you have lost your negative. If not, remove that line and connect the line from battery positive to converter positive. If that works, you have lost your positive.

In my case when converter output seemed fine, I found a very loose heavy negative wire loose in the converter negative terminal strip. I just wiggled the wires, and suddenly everything in the camper went bright so I knew what was wrong immediately. Try wiggling the wires.

KerrlakeRoo x 2

Ted not knowing the make, model and year of your RV, and not knowing the model of your WFCO Converter, we are at a disadvantage. Here is a clicky that will tell you everything I think you need to find your problem.

CLICKY

I am suggesting that you should look at the document I have provided rather than us trying to tell you what to do. Assuming from what little info you gave us, the 12vdc from the converter is connected to your fuse panel and therefore, to the battery. So if you check at the converter you may be getting a reading from the battery and not from the converter at all. But if that were true, the all the fuses would have to have been blown not to have DC power.

Read the trouble shooting part of the manual for your converter and if then you have questions, feel free to ask questions but please let us know all the info I mentioned in the first sentence.

I am truly trying to help you so don't be offended, just help us help you.

It's not dead, is about 70% charge
But it is not getting recharged

Salesman switch near the door?

"12.4 volts is a dead battery so those are not getting charged."

?

Ted, first of all you need to figure out how your trailer is wired. Contrary to popular belief, not all trailers are wired the same. Just depends on the manufacturer. Is your converter wired directly to the 12V fuse panel? If so, and you are on shore power, then the battery and its fuses or circuit breakers have no effect on having 12V on the fuse panel. Also, where is your battery disconnect (if you have one) wired into the 12V supply? Some, like mine, only disconnect the battery. Others may disconnect all 12V from the fuse panel. Take your volt meter and check for 12V on the feed to the fuses on the 12V circuit board (if your trailer has a printed circuit board with all of the fuses on it). The feed should be large screw terminals and there should be one or two for positive and one or two for negative. If you read converter voltage there, check both sides of each fuse to see if you have positive 12V from each one to negative. If you don't have any 12V on the fuses or the feed to the panel, start tracing wires back to the converter to see where you find 12V.

Also, some trailers, like mine, run both positive and negative wires to every 12V light and appliance. In this case, the frame ground is not used as a return and would not be a cause of loss of DC.

Please post again with results after you have done some more testing and everyone here will be glad to give you some more guidance. Sorry your trip was messed up.

Ken

Hopefully one of the answers will solve the issue, but make sure all batteries and all the connections they go to have been taken apart and cleaned. Battery connections can look fine but can be a common problem.

If no DC at the fuse panel but DC at the converter then you have an open line between the two.

The open line can be as simple as a breaker popped or a loose connection at either end.

12.4 volts is a dead battery so those are not getting charged.

Model of rv might help.

Your power out of the converter is "ok" but no DC from that or battery. So it is about the DC fuse panel not being connected to either battery or converter. Those connect with wires from each going to the set-screw lugs on the fuse panel. There can be lugs on the back of the panel not just on the front.

If you measured the converter output as being ok at the fuse panel but no DC, then suspect the fuse panel has lost its ground to the frame (sometimes shared with the 120v ground --the bare wire going from the shore cord by the "main" circuit breaker. However, that might mean no ground for the 120v either.

You had a frame ground issue at the battery bank that you fixed. Maybe the same thing only now it is the fuse panel's ground?