No DC

In another forum is a link to an artile (you tube video I think) on how to use a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter or multi-meter)

The test for a bad converter

Cheap test. Turn on 12 volt lights. disconnect battery negative lead. Do lights remain on?????

Advanced test.
Measure battery voltage (static no lights, not plugged in) take note
Measure battery voltage after pluggin in Take note
Measure voltage at converter output terminals,, take note
Measure voltage at converter output with battery disconncted take note

IF YOU HAVE a meter such as a clamp on DC ammeter (I DO) measure amps in battery cable, take note

Post notes and we will advise.

wa8yxm wrote:

Measure battery voltage (static no lights, not plugged in) take note
Measure battery voltage after pluggin in Take note
Measure voltage at converter output terminals {clarification: with grid power plugged in and battery and everything else connected}, take note
Measure voltage at converter output with battery disconncted take note

x2.
Get a multimeter. Ebay and Amazon have it from $3 (I think).
Line #2 will already tell youwhether converter is charging the battery, but do proceed to #3-4.

Same Song ~ Second Post

Good advice. Can't do much diagnosis without a multimeter, and the cost is right.

A clamp-on ammeter is also useful, but much more expensive. If you do decide to get one, make sure it measures both AC and DC.

After delving into your problem, I have the solution. Progressive Dynamics 9200 series 45 amp deck mounted converter with charge wizzard.

I do not believe that they make the 8800 series converters any longer and my guess is that the 8800 series was a failure. Too many problems just like yours. The thing is not reliable and you need to replace it.

If you have a battery disconnect switch, check the operation of that. They do fail and usually in the normally open position, why I don't know and I'm not going to try and find out.

Your converter is toast.

Your prior thread indicated your converter was putting out 13.6 volts but your battery wasn't charging. That usually means that you have a fuse/solenoid or other issue between the battery and the converter - if so replacing the converter won't fix your problem.

But Kevin he also said he got so many posts about loose wire that he checked and I can only assume from the rest of this second post he tighten the wire at the converter and then he had 13.6vdc and then it disappeared again.

The suggested hook up for his converter had a auto reset breaker an the battery disconnect, your suggestion is a good one and correct but when he messed with the lug something made contact and worked for awhile and then failed again. And in the trouble shooting instructions from WFCO, the first thing they direct you to do is disconnect the wire from the converter to the distribution panel. That would also a credence to your theory but read my thoughts below.

I think the converter is bad, maybe it is converting as it should but I think there is a high resistance open at the lug. Most of the wire lugs in converters are riveted to the PC boards and they do become loose.
He might have had 13.6vdc at the lug but if there was a very high resistance there may have been enough current flow to operate a meter but not a ceiling light or TV or radio.

Those things do happen.