No gas to stove only

toytacoma8 wrote:
Got the new one installed today and everything is working correctly. Hopefully it lasts for as long as we have the trailer. Thanks for all the responses.

In 44 years and working on thousands of stoves/ranges, I have NEVER had a clogged failed Stove regulator. So, you should have NO worries. Yours was a fluke. Doug

Got the new one installed today and everything is working correctly. Hopefully it lasts for as long as we have the trailer. Thanks for all the responses.

toytacoma8 wrote:
https://a.co/d/frDLD0F

That's the link for the one I ordered.
I was around 5 to 7k feet for most of my trip, and when we noticed it not working, we were back around 3k feet and are now at sea level at home.

I should have the new one in a few days to know if it works.

Thanks for reporting back on this. That appears to be the same Seven Universe R60 stove regulator that Atwood started using, just with the Suburban part number. Both Atwood/Dometic and Suburban have used that stove regulator for some time. I had "issues" with them regulating at all. They would pass through whatever the upstream line pressure was—no step-down feature. I bought 6 of them, 3 for clients campers and 3 for stock. I tried to report the issue to Dometietc, but they would not even listen; I was willing to send them new ones unopened to test; they wanted nothing to do with it. No one else was complaining, so they wrote me off. See here for pics of the R60 regulator I bought the 6 of them. http://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30325772/gotomsg/30327828.cfm#30327828

That same regulator has been reported and tested to give issues above 4,500 ft elevation. See this thread below where the poster had these issues, he tried to work with Dometic, and they stated the stove is not rated to work above 4,500 ft. ??? The poster did not give up and tracked the issue down to the main tank regulator to increase the set point to 11.5 " WC and get a reliable tank regulator that would not drop below the 11.5 " WC and not go above 14 WC. See here for that RV net post, this will drop you into where the problem starts to get sorted out, and he posted the fix, and now it all works at all the elevations he camps at.
http://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30325772/gotomsg/30330637.cfm#30330637

When you get your new regulator, before installing it, I suggest this. Test it on the end of your hose like you did your existing regulator. You may have more issues than just this stove regulator if it does not work. And even if it does work, hang onto that old regulator until you get back up above 4,500 ft to ensure the new one works correctly.

My issue here at 500 ft elevation was the R60 would not step the pressure down; in your case, it will not pass pressure. But you went through a large elevation change, and it appears you are on a rubber hose gas line camper setup. Is this correct?

Not sure how old your camper is; rubber LP gas line over time can leach oil into the hose, and that oil can mess with certain small orifices if it gets large enough in volume. The longer the hose, the worse the problem. I am unsure what chemical reaction occurs between a rubber hose and LP gas, but the oil formation is well documented. I did no not like seeing the RV industry starting to change from black iron main gas lines with soft copper pigtails to the appliances to now using all rubber hoses from the main tank regulator to the appliances. On the older campers, there was only about 3 to 4 feet of flex hose from the main tank regulator to the black iron 1/2" sch 40 main gas pipe. This older setup had limited rubber, and the oil issue did not show up so much. We will see how this plays out long-term on having that much rubber hose in a camper.

Curious about how your new regulator will work. Please report back.

John

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Here ya go. I taped them together as all they did was silicone them in place and they fell off. It's a normally closed solenoid. Place the two pcs together and you hear the valve open. With the two pcs separated the stove will NOT light. The switch was mounted to the arm that raises and lowers the Quartz top.

Thank You, Nice and easy design. But from your pics it is obvious Mobile Suites designed and installed the system. VERY RARE, but I rarely work on Mobile Suite type RV's. I guess they rarely break down:) Doug

Here ya go. I taped them together as all they did was silicone them in place and they fell off. It's a normally closed solenoid. Place the two pcs together and you hear the valve open. With the two pcs separated the stove will NOT light. The switch was mounted to the arm that raises and lowers the Quartz top.

https://a.co/d/frDLD0F

That's the link for the one I ordered.
I was around 5 to 7k feet for most of my trip and when we noticed it not working we were back around 3k feet and are now at sea level at home.

I should have the new one in a couple days to know if it works.

toytacoma8 wrote:
Pulled the hose off the regulator and gas flowed out of it. Disconnected the regulator from the stove and put it back on the hose and no gas came out. Looks like I found the culprit?
55 bucks on Amazon for this little guy.
GRH60. LpG 10" WC

Hi,

Can you tell us the brand name of the stove regulator you found on Amazon or a link to it? I searched under that part number, and it does not show up. I may not be searching for it correctly.

You reported the stove regulator was closed/blocked, not passing gas on your end of the hose test. This is not a common thing if I understood your test correctly. I have not "yet" seen this failed closed issue on a stove regulator other than when there were elevation issues above 5,000 feet. The camper travels lower in the 4,500 ft elevation and under, and the regulator starts working again. That issue I learned about. But not a purely stuck closed regulator that is normally open with no gas attached to it.

What elevation are you at now, and what was it when it worked at camp for you earlier? These elevation issues do not show up here on the east coast, but west coast folks have reported them.

May learn something new about your regulator failure and I am trying to understand it. The learning never stops.

Thanks

John

Cummins12V98 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Does the cooktop have a lid that is fixed at a hinge point? If so the switch may be faulty or came loose.

Please explain this comment. I have 44 years as an RV tech and have never seen a RV cooktop cover that has a "safety" switch. Kind of makes NO sense. To light a cook top burner you have to lift the bi fold cover anyway. Doug

My Mobile Suites has a motorized lift on a switch for the Quartz top because it's HEAVY and it has a switch that closes off the gas when it closes plain and simple.

Can you give me the brand and model number of your stove? You have a luxury model RV and those may have appliances that have either been modified or the RV maker has installed an optional system to prevent damage if the top is lowered when burners are on. While your comment made me think, think of you owning a Rolls Royce and commenting on a standard automobile forum about items in your Rolls Royce. Completely different items and way of operating. The OP stated Jayco, as a Jayco center, I KNEW there was no such thing as a safety switch for the Stove. Doug

I was going to suggest the stove's regulator.. (Stoves often have a on-board regulator in addition to the 11" regulator for everything else)

dougrainer wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Does the cooktop have a lid that is fixed at a hinge point? If so the switch may be faulty or came loose.

Please explain this comment. I have 44 years as an RV tech and have never seen a RV cooktop cover that has a "safety" switch. Kind of makes NO sense. To light a cook top burner you have to lift the bi fold cover anyway. Doug

My Mobile Suites has a motorized lift on a switch for the Quartz top because it's HEAVY and it has a switch that closes off the gas when it closes plain and simple.