Norcold 663 troubleshooting...
Greetings,
I have a Norcold 663 that works on propane but not on AC. Initially, I popped open the power supply board to find a blown fuse and a sizable burnt spot on the board. So, I replaced the board. Now the AC still doesn't work.
I went through most of the troubleshooting steps in this manual. The AC heater is definitely getting 120v out of the power supply. The only "problem" that I encountered from the manual is a test on the eyebrow board that was supposed to yield 10VDC but instead I am only getting 3v. However, if the board is still outputting 120v to the heater, then does that really matter?
I read somewhere that you could splice the AC heater's power cables into a normal cable and plug it straight into a receptacle in order to bypass any of the other electronics that could be bad. However, if the power supply board is already outputting 120v then I'm not sure what difference it might make? Does this all just point to a need to replace the AC heater?
I'm renting the RV for the summer from a guy, and it's going to stay parked pretty much the entire time. I don't need a "proper" fix -- if there is a good way to jumper this bad boy then I would be interested in doing that.
Also -- in the panel on the side of the RV, behind the fridge, there is this wire (see pic here) that isn't attached to anything, and it doesn't look like there is anything to attach it to. What's this for, and could it be a culprit? I can't find anything about it in the manuals.
Thank you.
I have a Norcold 663 that works on propane but not on AC. Initially, I popped open the power supply board to find a blown fuse and a sizable burnt spot on the board. So, I replaced the board. Now the AC still doesn't work.
I went through most of the troubleshooting steps in this manual. The AC heater is definitely getting 120v out of the power supply. The only "problem" that I encountered from the manual is a test on the eyebrow board that was supposed to yield 10VDC but instead I am only getting 3v. However, if the board is still outputting 120v to the heater, then does that really matter?
I read somewhere that you could splice the AC heater's power cables into a normal cable and plug it straight into a receptacle in order to bypass any of the other electronics that could be bad. However, if the power supply board is already outputting 120v then I'm not sure what difference it might make? Does this all just point to a need to replace the AC heater?
I'm renting the RV for the summer from a guy, and it's going to stay parked pretty much the entire time. I don't need a "proper" fix -- if there is a good way to jumper this bad boy then I would be interested in doing that.
Also -- in the panel on the side of the RV, behind the fridge, there is this wire (see pic here) that isn't attached to anything, and it doesn't look like there is anything to attach it to. What's this for, and could it be a culprit? I can't find anything about it in the manuals.
Thank you.
