Hi all. I've searched the forum and haven't found anything like my problem. Hopefully someone can help out. I have a Norcold 1210 in a 2012 Montana. Five months ago our freezer had a large amount of ice on the back wall so we defrosted it. We turned it off and used a hair dryer to warm it up. Everything was fine. A month later we moved on to our next destination and the fridge wasn't cooling. Had a technician look at it and he removed a wasp nest off the LP burner. We mostly run on AC because of my fear of a fire. After he looked at it, it seemed to run ok, but I had to run the temp all the way up to 9 for it to cool enough. Ever since, it has worked some and not worked some. For about the past month now, the box temp has stayed at about 52 degrees and the freezer temp at about 32 degrees with some frost on the back, but nothing is freezing. I have tried running it on LP and AC with no change. I also replaced the thermistor with no change. Current outside temps are mid 40's to mid 50's. And I'm parked in an area with no direct sunlight. I know there is at least one fan on the back because I saw it when I took a picture up the back to make sure the air flow wasn't blocked. But I don't know if I've ever heard it come on. I'm at my wits end and tired of losing money to food that spoils. Does anyone have any ideas or is it time to just call a professional?

I know most people don't want to hear this but I would look at installation instructions and double check the clearances to the back wall and make sure the roof vent has a sloping "chimney" to it. Rarely, if ever do RV manufacuters follow all the guide lines, especially the chimney part. Not doing so can severly effect cooling of a perfectly good fridge.Unfortunately the 1210 has limited cooling power to start with so these guidelines are even more important.The sensor for the fans don't last long either. Mine lasted exactly one week on a brand new fridge. The replacement part has held up so far.

Here is what you need to do for TEST of Cooling UnitUnplug the electric heater element leads from the lower circuit bd.Check that BOTH elements are good.....64 ohms eachPlug the leads DIRECTLY into the 120V AC Outlet (unplug fridge power cord and plug the leads into the outlet)---4 leads. 2 Black & 2 YellowConnect the 2 blacks together and the 2 yellows together....1 set of black into one of the slots on the 120V AC Outlet & 1 set of yellow into other slot on the 120V AC OutletTurn fridge ON---and let it run at least 12 hrsThen measure temps in freezer/food compartmentFreezer should be 10*F or lower and Food compartment should be 40*F or lower IF cooling unit is functioningIf NOT....cooling unit is NOT capable of cooling and will need replacedIF it does cool down then you have an issue with circuit bd, thermistor,

No matter what else, a lousy install will result in lousy cooling.

ScottG wrote:No matter what else, a lousy install will result in lousy cooling.That’s true but in a 2012 unit it’s probably been working until recently.

you can try the above testyou can also try running it propane for at least 12hrsbut it is possible you damaged the fridgeif you always run on 120v and never on propaneyou might consider replacing it with a residential 12ov compressor fridge ( if this one has failed )what do you do when traveling, or is this set up in a fixed locationfor seasonal use ? ( in this case ,residential replacement makes good sense )

Norcold fridge won't cool | Good Sam Community

MrWizard
Moderator
Feb 03, 2019
you can try the above test

you can also try running it propane for at least 12hrs

but it is possible you damaged the fridge

if you always run on 120v and never on propane
you might consider replacing it with a residential 12ov compressor fridge ( if this one has failed )

what do you do when traveling, or is this set up in a fixed location
for seasonal use ? ( in this case ,residential replacement makes good sense )
wnjj
Explorer II
Feb 03, 2019
ScottG wrote:
No matter what else, a lousy install will result in lousy cooling.

That’s true but in a 2012 unit it’s probably been working until recently.
ScottG
Nomad
Feb 03, 2019
No matter what else, a lousy install will result in lousy cooling.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Feb 03, 2019
Here is what you need to do for TEST of Cooling Unit

Unplug the electric heater element leads from the lower circuit bd.
Check that BOTH elements are good.....64 ohms each

Plug the leads DIRECTLY into the 120V AC Outlet (unplug fridge power cord and plug the leads into the outlet)---4 leads. 2 Black & 2 Yellow
Connect the 2 blacks together and the 2 yellows together....1 set of black into one of the slots on the 120V AC Outlet & 1 set of yellow into other slot on the 120V AC Outlet

Turn fridge ON---and let it run at least 12 hrs
Then measure temps in freezer/food compartment
Freezer should be 10*F or lower and Food compartment should be 40*F or lower IF cooling unit is functioning
If NOT....cooling unit is NOT capable of cooling and will need replaced

IF it does cool down then you have an issue with circuit bd, thermistor,
ScottG
Nomad
Feb 03, 2019
I know most people don't want to hear this but I would look at installation instructions and double check the clearances to the back wall and make sure the roof vent has a sloping "chimney" to it.
Rarely, if ever do RV manufacuters follow all the guide lines, especially the chimney part. Not doing so can severly effect cooling of a perfectly good fridge.
Unfortunately the 1210 has limited cooling power to start with so these guidelines are even more important.
The sensor for the fans don't last long either. Mine lasted exactly one week on a brand new fridge. The replacement part has held up so far.

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