Norcold issue - Freezer Good, Frig Bad

The OP needs help. Not a bunch of Yahoos arguing over which type refer is best in their opinion and the needs for their type refer. It gets annoying when someone posts help and we have to wade thru a bunch of BS. You don't like Norcold? Fine, just SHUT UP. You have made your point on EVERY Norcold thread for the past dozen years.
To the OP, need more info but I will assume you have the 1200 since you have 9 tstat settings. FIRST thing is to verify the rear cooling fans are running. THAT is the most common cause of low performance in the bottom and the freezer works. Doug

OP, try increasing the air flow behind the refer.

Sidecar, do you have a residential refrigerator in a RV? My mistake was spending way too much money on my NoCold...should have go residential sooner and we boondock often. With the residential I actually run my generator less than before...BUT I added a 100 amp charger with the battery system for the refer.

PS: Went from 12 to 21 cuft and the 21 weighs less than the 12. At 40,000+ lbs another two batteries will not be noticed.

AND...........

HERE..........

WE............

GO............

AGAIN.........





This is like playing south in a contract Bridge came.

North Bids "One No Trump"

East Bids "False News"

residential refridge is not power hungry my norcold drew 4 amps of ac power my residential draws 1 amp of ac power yes I added a inverter and 2 more batterys but could go 2 full days on battery power alone best upgrade I have down anybody that tells you residential is not the way to go is just afraid to do it

Ivylog wrote:
"residential compressor fridges are power hungry so all is well if you camp in a campground with adequate power available" No they are not...my energy star (21 cuft) draws less than 100 watts when running less than half the time. That's 8 amps DC measured before the inverter. My rig does not bounce down the road and their are now thousands of home refers in RVs without any problems.

Most trailers and TCs have a 12V charging line from the vehicle and I doubt the 150+ amp alternator will even notice 8 amps. Yes if you boondock often two additional batteries will solve your energy issues.

Therein lies another issue.. more batteries = more weight.

Every 'rig' bounces up and down on our fine highway system. If it don't you aren't driving anywhere.:R

Far as issues go, I have no idea. If it was me, I'd have a RV compressor fridge with a high efficiency, low amp drain compressor. Typical Danfoss / Waeco compressors draw just over 2 amps full tilt. Panasonic inertia compressors draw even less.

Moved to Tech Issues

Wayne
Moderator

"residential compressor fridges are power hungry so all is well if you camp in a campground with adequate power available" No they are not...my energy star (21 cuft) draws less than 100 watts when running less than half the time. That's 8 amps DC measured before the inverter. My rig does not bounce down the road and their are now thousands of home refers in RVs without any problems.

Most trailers and TCs have a 12V charging line from the vehicle and I doubt the 150+ amp alternator will even notice 8 amps. Yes if you boondock often two additional batteries will solve your energy issues.

Boxer Lovers wrote:
I replaced mine with a Samsung 18.5 c.f. residential unit for less than a new Norcold coil costs. Much better now.

The issue with any residential unit is two fold. One, residential compressor fridges are power hungry so all is well if you camp in a campground with adequate power available. If you 'boondock', the power requirements become an issue quickly. Between your ac and the fridge and everything else, you'll need a BIG genny to power your unit.

The other is, residential compressor fridges are not designed or built to withstand bouncing down the road when you travel and if you are traveling, unless you have an adequate inverter and battery capacity, you'll find the batteries flat when you arrive at your destination. Even if the camper is plugged into your truck, your truck charging system won't provide enough juice to run the fridge for an extended road trip. Between the power draw and the bouncing around in the unit, life expectancy could be short.

Ammonia fridges draw very little current (on propane) even with add on fans, less than 2 amps in most cases.

I replaced mine with a Samsung 18.5 c.f. residential unit for less than a new Norcold coil costs. Much better now.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Fins in food compartment....are they even getting cool?

How long have you been running fridge?
Is it LEVEL????

Freezer has to get down below 10*F before food compartment will start cooling down

Obstructed/blocked cooling unit between 'low temp evap' (freezer) and 'high temp evap' (food compartment).....cooling unit bad

Might need some forced air cooling on the outside, but I suspect it's suffering from the 'blocked artery' syndrome.