Norcold N611 Fridge 5 flashes
Norcold N611 triggers trouble code 5 flashes, I reset it and 4-6 hrs later same code is displayed. I reflash the board and again it runs for 4-6 hrs code displays again. The freezer works very well,it...
Forum Discussion
holdn2aces wrote:dougrainer wrote:holdn2aces wrote:
Doug, this unit is in a Jayco 30JTX, the reefer is not in the slide portion. I have investicated more and was going to try the suggestion you proposed next weekend when I get back to my trailer. I do not have an amp meter to test how many amps the heater is drawing but will try to get one for next weekend to confirm if the heater is within spec. Do the control boards go on these often?
Amp meter is not needed. The Heat element either works or it does NOT. So, if it gets hot it is working. Control board failure is not that common. Doug
Went to my RV this weekend and forgot some tools at home to bypass board by connecting heater direct to AC. What I did do was disconnect the AC and ran the fridge on Gas. After several hours the fridge stopped and trouble code 5 flashes was displayed. The fridge and freezer were at operating temprature when it tripped the code. I tried to restart it by cycling the switch with no luck, I then tried to reflash (AC Disconnected)the board as I have done several times before with no luck, I then disconnected the 12 volt + connector and reconnected it right away and the it tripped the board as if I had reflashed it. I decided at that point to run it on AC and save my Gas. After 40 minutes I touched the metal surrounding the heater element and could not leave my hand on it for more than 5 or 6 seconds. I did check the resistance of the AC heater element and it was 47 K ohms. I checked the resistance of the thermistor with warm water and Ice cold water and I did have different readings but never got to the specs that I had. I was going to let it run in the Bypass mode but ran out of time, I will try this next time up unless someone has any other sugestions. I do not think the cooling unit is faulty because it does make ice when it runs. Do you still think I need to power the heater directly?
Yes, Power the 120 direct. But, You STILL need to get the REAL temps in the freezer and refer with a DIGITAL type thermometer. The Thermister test is not valid. You can have a Thermister that OHMS out the correct readings and still be bad. Doug
